Hi Lads, well its about time i did an Eaststar build at long last so here we go.
I cant do it as per website ones, that would be giving away trade plans, so ive set about doing it a different way. Not much, but different equipment spec and fitting.
Lets start with the fuse, i always install everything with the nose to the right, no idea why its just the way i do it, i think its so my right arm, dominant arm is in th thick of it and my left arms the tail side that not a lot ever happens. Weird but its habit :)
So everything gets installed this side which is nice and easy to see how everythings done :)
Ill update as i go.
Spec list :
Motor - 2212-06 28A 2200KV SP Brushless Outrunner Motor V2
Lots and lots of power to get up high and cruise round for ages
ESC - Undecided yet but 40 amp and low RF noise
Servos, HTX900`s all round. Top servos, cheap as chips to buy, fix and replace.
Wing Spar - Going to be carbon fibre to take the extra weight and very hard flying its going to get
Ailerons - Adding these for sure
Rudder - Extended rudder going straight on
Receiver - 9 Channel Dragonlink UHF
FPV equipment :
Camera - GoPro HD Hero, 1080p 30 fps live linked to transmitter
OSD - EZOSD For antenna tracking and past experiance made this decission real easy
Transmitter - ImmersionRC 2.4 Ghz 10mw 4 Channel
Pan servo - Futaba S3001 with servo extender for 180 degrees travel
Lipos - 2200mah Zippy Flightmax but going to experiment with larger capacity working up as i see how the weight is
So far ive started work on the fuse, and cut it out to how i want the equipment to be placed. Work out where everythings going to go :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/EZFuse.jpg)
A close up of my cuts :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0654.jpg) (http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0655.jpg)
Dragonlink fitted and antenna installed :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/EZfuse2.jpg)
great things are happening here matey she is coming on alright dl aswell awesome keep them coming matey..
Looking good so far Ian, can't wait to see the rest of the build!
cool build - i like the magnet idea.
looking good Ian!! ;)
Those EZ*'s are addictive!!!
Cheers lads, i got the magnet idea off kelton, if i need to replace any sides of the fuse i can, or tail or just to get inside it at any point.
Ill crack on with the EZ pod in a bit :)
I like the magnet idea. I'm interest to know how much weight that will add and if the extra metal will cause vTX interference?
Ok as the night progressed ive now fitted the tail on.
Camera wise im using a firstpersonview EZ camera pod. But as i had a lot of servo horn failings on heavy landings perviously, the idea of the gopro flying off and damaging the expensive lens is something you dont want happening at all. Thats why i decided to go with a much bigger / stronger servo with bigger and stronger horn.
This meant taking a saw to the camera pod :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0658.jpg)
Not a problem it cuts really easy even though the plastic is quite strong and thick. Then i mounted the servo to see how much further down it sits compared against the bottom of the pod :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0660.jpg) (http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0659.jpg)
Lovely :)
The servo is mounted on top which normally would put your camera high and you may not see the nose while flying with no tilt. This is not a desired effect as you have no reference to which way forward is. But due to the Gopro`s lens you have a enough angle to still see the nose no problem so this is not an issue
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0661.jpg)
Well as time passed i didn`t like the height afterall, i could mount the servo below so took it off and mounted from underneath :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0666.jpg)
Time for bed, so lets see how far ive got, insides carved out, Dragonlink receiver fitted, tail fitted, magnets fitted, pod modified for standard size servo. Not bad. If i have any time tomorrow ill continue :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0665.jpg)
Peter : The metal will have no effect on the signal from the vtx at all, but the magnetic fields may, this is why i wont use them on the pod itself being vey close to vtx. Ill have to do some range checks first. But if all is fine then im good to go, if not i can open fuse and remove and glue but i cant see them having any detrimental effects to be honest, but you never know :)
With all that weight in the pod keeping the pod on is important so im going to glue some old 450 heli main shafts in place with holes through the pod. Holes through the shafts so i can put clips through the shafts holding the pod on very well.
But thats for another day :)
Looking good Ian! :D
I wish I had gone down the magnet route now... I didn't ready about the idea until after I glued the Fuse!
I see your going with an outrunner too - have you decided on the prop yet?
I'm still waiting for the DragonLink gear, so will have to live with 2.4ghz for now...
Looking forward to the rest of the build! Our EZ*s will be very similar - would be fun to fly together at a FPVUK meet!
Cheers, Nic
(waiting for some more great ideas to steal for my EZ* build! :P)
Cheers Nic, im using a 6x4E Prop for some mntal power to push the admittedly heavy body around at a nice glide or full high speed pass.
Just got in from work and my Gopro`s arrived Yeah !!!
Awesome!
Now get Building!!!!! :D ;)
Lol i want to, but tonight ive got two other EZ`s to finish and box for posting so mine will have to wait till tomorrow night to crack on with :(
Edit : Couldn`t help but see how it looks mounted on EZ :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0673.jpg) (http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0672.jpg)
Looks nice n low, glad i went with servo under not over now :)
looking nice ian looks very stable and looks like it will capture some cracking footage ...looking forward to see it develope
One quick qu. regarding the tail mounting on a Fuse held together with magents. I presume you are going to glue the tail to only one side of the fuselage? Will this be stable enough?
I was thinking you could cut the detachable side of the fuse about 2-3 inches before the tail and glue this rear section in place to give a secure mount for the tail. You can then reincorce the tail beam with CF tube to counter the weakness of the actual tail, which will have a solid fitting into the glued end tail section... You would still have full access along the fuse, and the tail mount would be as strong as a fully glues EZ*...
Does this sorta make sense? (?)
Yup that makes perfect sense, ive not decided yet, i think ill be cuttin the tail so both sides glue to it for my purposes. I dont need the tail to come off so i think thats the way im going to run with it.
Decissions decissions lol :)
Quote from: Coyote on October 20, 2010, 10:17:46 PM
I dont need the tail to come off
Especially during flight!!! :o The builds looking good Ian, can't wait to see the finished article. ;)
Interesting to see the remark about magnetic fields affecting the vtx. What sort of effect? wobbly lines, loss of signal?
Looking very nice Ian.
Im not sure what effects if any yet, but im trying to keep the srong magnetic fields away from the delicate and sensetive trandsmitter and camera. Hopefully nothing will show up, im testing the camera tomorrow to see if anythings effecting that
Cheers Martin, hopefully get a load more done tomorrow :)
Oh goody :)
Just got in from work to find a lovely new 10mw Vtx thanks to Simon
Servo`s have arrived, but only for one plane no both :(
ESC`s for both planes turned up
Two lovely motors too :)
1x 2200 Black Mantis for my LOS Ez and the outrunner for this build :
Black Mantis, a great FPV EZ choice of motor :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0678.jpg)
I know its not to do with this build but damn its sexy lol
2212-06 28A 2200KV SP
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0677.jpg)
And my transmitter, so guess i have a bit of spare time tonight for myself so lets start building :)
thats one sexy motor looks the bees knees.................
Ok quick update :
First the camera pod, because pan servos tend to be first effected and need to be kept super still i added a ferrite ring to the servo lead. 5 wraps rounds enough to work effectivly
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0681.jpg)
Next thing i wanted was to mount the vtx and EZOSD so they were accessable so i could adjust the Osd without ripping everything to bits or change channels on the vtx. Here`s how ive mounted them :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0684.jpg) (http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0685.jpg)
The height was govened by the antenna height i wanted and cable connectors having to clear the lipo. Also there would be a birds nest of wires so i donned the soldering iron to simplify the wiring and improving clearance :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0683.jpg)
Next on the list was to mount the current sensor to the EZ. By doing this it means fitting the pod is a three wire affair, all connectors are locking apart from the servo connection to pan servo.
I mounted the current sensor, tapped into it and got the feeds for the RSSI reading and display toggle input. RSSI on a UHF receiver might seem pointless but i think that monitoring it would let me know of any problems and might save an accident.
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0687.jpg)
I then fitted the elevator servo wire, the pan servo wire and ailerons. Then spent a bit of time making it as neat as i possibly could :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0688.jpg)
hey looking good ian looking very neat and tidy well laid out aswell ..really looking forward to seeing this take to the skies ..
RSSI?
RSSI Is Receiver Signal Strength Indication.
All receivers have this pin on board, you tap onto the pin and the Osd reads the voltage off it. The voltage increases or decreases as signal gets stronger or weaker. You can program the scale on the EZOSD to let you know when your receivers getting to its max range before failsafes kick in.
The problem with using it on a UFH system is you would have to be 20-30km away for it to be any use. :)
So another bit later and all the electronics are in now.
Even though theres a lot of kit fitted im quite happy it look so neat
I still need to fit the motor mount for the outrunner and figure out my own version of a gopro mount. I want to keep weight to a minimum so something basic but practical and safe is the order
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0691.jpg)
Bit of thinking time tonight and im sure ill have it sussed :)
Ok time has past and i turned my thinking to a better way of keeping my pod on my EZ.
I wanted quick access, practical, easy to do :)
I came up with this :
Cut down mainshafts from a heli, drill hole through fitted pod into easy fuse, fill holes with glue and fit the shafts till the holes were the height of the pod. I then cut two hairclips and attached some wire to them, so i dont lose them in the field and fitted them.
I then pushed the shafts down so they make the pod fit tight and then left the glue to go off to get the heights of the shafts correct
The result :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0692.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0696.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0693.jpg)
Rock solid, the pods going nowhere fast :)
Quote from: Coyote on October 21, 2010, 09:27:03 PM
The problem with using it on a UFH system is you would have to be 20-30km away for it to be any use. :)
This is the kinda problem I like! :D
Love the pod clips idea Ian, good one!
Are you mounting the ESC on the inside of the bird and if so, are you worried about airflow/cooling?
Yes my kind of problem too :)
Cheers the pod wont go anwhere now.
Excellent question, yes ive mounted the ESC inside to keep its looks. Becasue im mountng an outrunner the cooling duct at the front of the motor pod can be utilized for ESC cooling.
I have made a piece of depren, glued it in place which blockes the air from exiting from the rear and chanelling it down the duct ive cut
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0697.jpg)
The air enters the top, goes down the channel into the ESC section, and the blue arrow shows channels cut in the sides where it escapes
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0700.jpg)
Normally you could get away with no cooling if you picked a high enough ESC but ive added these because the motor is power hungry :)
brilliant ian shes looking very nice and some nice little clever ideas alot can be learnt from this build ..me included
Great Ian, you must let us know how that performs in the field!
Ok next update, been at it for an hour or two today so far.
All electronics are in, motor mount fitted, motor fitted to mount, ailerons cut out and servos fitted.
So apart from Gopro`s base im ready to rock n roll
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0702.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0703.jpg)
Looks great Ian! I see you have caught me up whilst I've been waiting for the Video transmitter to arrive!!! :P
Looking foward to your maiden video - are you going to give it a go tomorrow?
Cheers, Nic.
Lol Alas no i cant, im waiting on a av lead from Simon, i think he said he`s expecting them arriving on monday. Totally forgot about it till just then :)
LOL - sounds like my prob with the vTx! Pity you don't live closer - I have lots of spare AV leads... ;)
Weather permitting, I'll get airborne tomorrow... Skills permitting, I won't crash! :laugh:
Well good luck with it matey
This lead is a special, 4 pole 2.55 mm jack plug thats moulded at 90 degrees so not somethig off the shelf but for FPV pan its spot on the money. Shame you cant do the same with the USB ( angled connector ) now that woul be perfect :)
Ok next update, the Mk.1 Gopro mount has just been finished, ive gone with ultra light ultra strong ply for the construction.
I made a base and cut two slots to the rear to hold the elastic bands on. The bands hold the camera down and because of the forces can not come away.
The camera is also held by velcro, the velcro is also there for anti-vibration too
This is only a mock up but after testing im happy and will go with this simple design :
The naked base :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0707.jpg)
Elastic backup :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0709.jpg)
Access for Usb and Av, very important :) :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0706.jpg)
All done :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0705.jpg)
looking good ian very good
Excellent Ian
Really professional work, fair play
Simon
Well just got in from work so i sanded the pod so its more pleasing to the eye. Then thought i should wap the Gopro on it and see what kind of view ill get.
Turns out, even with the Gopro as low to the nose as it is in 1080p you just miss the nose out. So for the highest quality image i can lock down the camera with no pan and not have a nose spoiling the view. In 780p though the nose is in view for general flying :)
GOPR0013 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMlX1hXRYnY#ws)
Ive hit a strange hurdle though, the pan servo twitches when centred, but only seems to do it when the Gopro is off it ????
Seems not a problem then as it will always be on but i want to know why its dong it. Ive got a ferrite on the servo lead so all i can think is its the servo extender / futaba S3001 servo combo ????
looks good so far ian far more wider angle than i though witch i should imagine is always a good thing..
Ok so apart from the Usb and AV lead which are on route, thats it !
All done, CG done, nearly maiden time :)
Flight weight came in at 1150 grams (40.57 ounces) with a 2200 mah lipo on board. Standard weight is 701 grams. Standard FPV equipments around 250 gram so around 951 grams is standard FPV weight, im what 182 grams higher, bearing in mind the weight of a Gopro thats not too bad at all really.
To go even lighter i could have placed the FPV gear in the rear but i wanted it accessable so had to add dead weight. 60 grams were added for the CG.
So with a bit more balancing with positioning i could have got it down to 1073 grams in total.
Anyway, minus the two wire here it is complete :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0710.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0711.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0714.jpg)
god she looks good ian niced and ballanced aswell ..ohh wait a minute whats that i spot on the floor in the corner lol he he
Yes my next FPV project :) Well spotted.
Im glad i went for the larger more powerfull motor, i think its going to compliment it well. Just got to make the dummy load canopy for it to get it all trimmed without placing Gopro at risk then im away :)
nice one looking forward to that getting the fpv treatment she deserves lol
Excellent stuff, can't wait to see the maiden!
Fair do's Ian! She looks lovely!!!
Bet you cant wait to try her out!
Not half Iain,
After some extensive testing with my other EZ if now found that with the CG further forward the plane flies much better and needs no trim at all. This comes in very handy for my fpv setup.
Because the CG is further forward i could then remove weight from the tail. By all means its not a huge ammount but as you can see from the pic below, still a fair bit.
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0716.jpg)
Left hand side new dead weight, right hand side previous dead weight, quite a big difference :)
Now i rechecked original weight of plane, its 1150g or 40.57 oz or 2.54 lbs.
New weight of 1075 or 37.9oz or 2.37 lbs
Weight saving of 2.65oz or 75 grams
What was your final decision on the tail mounting? Would you do anything different the next time round? I see you have not moved the elevator and rudder servos so how do you handle the tail connection? I am just at the glue or order magnets stage on my EZ* build. More decisions.....
I ended up gluing the tail, cutting one half of the fuse further up. So the tails rock solid. There was too much give any other way so just didn`t work out practical. the servo linkages arn`t glued all the way so bend round :)
Magnets ordered, thanks. Where would you recommend cutting the tail?
Half way between vertical stab and motor mount then carbon rod the full side. But i wouldnt commit recommending it till mine takes to the air in next few days :)
I will definitely wait for your test flight as the magnets will take at least a week from HKG anyway. The location I was considering was as marked in the photo as this would leave the tail section as normal, give access to the two cut-outs in the fuselage and does not disturb the load path from the wing to the fuselage. The angle is to provide both vertical and horizontal load paths from the tail into the main fuselage. It is all a compromise at the end of the day.
(http://s2.postimage.org/kxgnS.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/15oknfw2s/)
Just got in to find my Gopro live out angled lead has arrived from Firstpersonview.co.uk. Cant knock Simon, always next day delivery spot on.
So i cut the cable down, fitted it to EZOSD input and turned it on to see what we got.
GoPro live out + EZOSD test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5va7-_-Jao#)
Handy seeing the writing really clear but shame it doesnt fill the whole screen. The beeping is the telemetry from the EZOSD to the tracker working :)
looking good ian ... now go and fly he he
Change of plan, ive ripped the outrunner off the FPV version and fitted it to my los Easy, its more powerfull for sure but i think i need more for FPV version.
Looking very good, I look forward to seeing some footage...
Ive now noticed that the tail mod is not the best of ideas, the magnets are that strong they have pulled the tail that tight together on one side that after a week of sitting there its now starting to bend the tail round :(
Update, well its all finished.
Glued the tail now, not happy with he magnet pulling too hard.
USB cable fitted but im awaiting an angled mini b usb cable to get it tighter and to follow the angled jack plug ive now fitted. The Gopro now outputs live to EZOSD and chages off the Vtx 5v camera supply.
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0757.jpg)
Second thing was the outrunner. As Paul ( Venquessa ) Had stated mile more power than a stock 2200kv black mantis or Turnighy example but i felt for the extra weight and speedf i was after it was still a little low on power.
I decided on recomendation to go with a Keda motor from Giantcod. Its a Keda 2213 1920KV Brushless Outrunner Motor.
Just spooled it up and im getting 20 Amp draw at WOT on a APC 6x4 Prop.
I fitted a framework into the original inrunner enclosure and epoxied it in the the base plate to the frame. I used hot glue to hold it in place while the epoxy went off and for more strength.
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0756.jpg)
Next was a little finishing touch for more interesting videos, i added a Flycam 2 to the nose pointing down for some different angled shots and as i have no tilt on GoPro a bit of a different perspective
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0758.jpg)
One small problem though, ive isolated the servo chatter im getting on the pan servo, unfortunatly its the servo extender. As soon as i remove it the servos fine. So i might leave it out:(
So thats it. All i got to do is throw it in the air on saturday, back at work as from tomorrow so after work flying is out due to dark night :(
"hey all the best when she goes up, may she come down gently" ;D
"Nose cam" will be first to the scene of the accident so should give some exciting footage. It will give the face plant a whole new dimension. Can't wait.
He he he :)
Cheers Lance, yes Waikawa all new close up and personal crash cam lol
Interesting comment on the magnets, have you glued the whole fuselage or just the tail?
Just the tail section Mick :)
Ok after a lot of testing of the LOS EZ and comparing the upgraded motors power to the weight of this project it started to become apparent that although the EZ would fly, most the time would be slowely and at high throttle.
Keith came round and after showing him he to confirmed my doubts.
He then suggested a radical upgrade, but one that would open up much more posibilities. Then after the mod to run through his vast selection of props and see what performance we would be getting.
Heres the mod :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0775.jpg) (http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0779.jpg)
We cut out an aluminium plate to go over original motor plate. This was twice the height of the original. This lifts the motor much higher to open up the posibility of larger props............... much larger !!
So heres the result from a few examples. We tested on fully charged 2200mah flightmax lipo`s 3S. Recharged regularly to keep voltage of each test the same. The motor and voltage / watts etc was measured on a Turnigy watt meter.
The motor was a Keda - 2813 - 1920 Kv
6x4 Standard Easy Star prop
WOT = 18 Amps 180 Watts. Half throttle 4.3 Amps 39 Watts 24oz of thrust
6x5 Prop
WOT = 18.5 Amps 191 Watts. Half throttle 3.35 Amps 38 Watts
6x5 APC Prop
WOT = 20.5 Amps 238 Watts. Half throttle 5 Amps 60 Watts
7x5 Prop
WOT = 31 Amps 350 Watts. Half throttle 6.3 Amps 75 Watts
7x5 APC Prop
WOT = 34.4 Amps 320 Watts. Half throttle 8..4 Amps 105 Watts
8x3.8 Prop
WOT = 39 Amps 439 Watts. Half throttle 10.1 Amps 128 Watts 39oz of thrust
8x4 Prop
WOT = 37 Amps 420 Watts. Half throttle 7.6 Amps 89.3 Watts
8x6 Prop
WOT = 40 Amps 438 Watts. Half throttle 11.2 Amps 125 Watts
So after carefull testing it turns out that the best combination would be the 8x3.8 prop. Lots of power, low current consumption at cruise, this being in this case around 1/4 stick. Plenty of power really, If th Eazy had only say basic camera and tx on board then vertical climbs are easy with this combo with the power to weight ratio.
To put it in context heres the prop im using and the standard underpowered Easystar 6x4 underneath :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0776.jpg)
So job done, now the power felt is really strong, cruise is efficiant :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0774.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0777.jpg)
Big thanks to Keith for the hours of testing and theory and advice :) Cheers bud :)
oh my god its a beast lol
Looks good there buddy, I reckon now you could hold the plane in your hand hit the loud button and it will fly with no throw. ;D
He he he, yes i belive a simple release technique is all thats required :)
I think you said the plane weighs just over 2lbs so 439 watts should be adequate as the car dealers say. It will be interesting to see how mega thrust and a higher thrust line act when you open the taps. It looks like a big nose down effect. Maybe cruise to height and then give it some?
Ah yes good point i forgot to add, the motor did start getting very hot at WOT so we have took the throttle endpoint down to 90% giving 370 watts peak and 350 watts level
The motor runs cool then :)
Yeah might have to dial in some throttle to elevator mix to compensate for the extra power. We`l find out on saturday if the weather plays ball
Quote from: Waikawa on November 04, 2010, 11:31:18 PM
I think you said the plane weighs just over 2lbs so 439 watts should be adequate as the car dealers say. It will be interesting to see how mega thrust and a higher thrust line act when you open the taps. It looks like a big nose down effect. Maybe cruise to height and then give it some?
Your right it will have nose down effect but that can be tweaked out with a few minor setting changes on the flight tests.
The beauty of this setup will be faster climbs and the power to get out of trouble when needed.
Had it out for its maiden today, didn`t get out as early as i wanted too as work ran over but still go to see what it performs like.
Well ive very impressed with the motor prop combo. Loads of power and cruises fine on 1/4 power. Shoots off like a rocket on full stick :) It does slightly torque roll a tiny bit but doesn`t nose up / down under power. Looks like we got the motor thrust angle just about blob on :)
The extra weight had absolutly no ill effects and the EZ took it in its stride. The ailerons were too sensative though so im taming them down.
The glide can be slowed down to literally snails pace with no sign of tip stalling. It really does glide forever.
So test one complete, more than happy with the flight characteristics.
Light levels by the time we were all trimmed up was no good for gopro footage so thats for next time.
"Well done that man" time for one of these :rocks:
Any feedback on magnets idea post the maiden? Where did you finally make the cut?
Coyote, what did you use on your EZ aileron mod to secure the ailerons to the wing? Did you use tape or glue? If so what tape or glue did you use and where can I get it?
Very interesting thread and thanks.
Im not too keen on the magnets to be fair, i think ill glue the fuse afterall Mick
The ailerons are hinged on plastic pin hinges and then reinforced tape from staples. The tape can also be bought as cricket bat or hockey stick repair tape off Ebay :)
We taped it to top only following all the contours before sticking to the aileron like this :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0724.jpg)
Cheers, nice one! There is a Staples about 5 minutes from me.
Tell me more about the plastic pin hinges, where and how were these installed? Do you need these as well as the reinforced tape?
Is the pic above from the top or the bottom of the wing?
Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback on the magnets. More decisions, decisions......
It depends on how you decide to hinge it to be fair, theres lots of different hinge techniques, using the tape alone can work fine as long as you do both top and bottom. Because i used hinges themselves only the top needed doing.
Both with pin hinges, normal plastic hinges or the tape hinges installation is the same, i tapered a 45 degree angle on ailerons to make a point down the centre, the cut the ailerons and glued the hinge in. Once set cut the wing side at hinge points down the centres and glued in place. The 45 degree angles give max movement.
No problem Mick, i`d love to say it was a great idea but honestly not sold on it :)
So i get to the next mod, not a big one by all means, the white nose. With a white nose most FPV cameras pick up the white and balance the light wrongly because of it. Theres many option but i didnt want to paint, tape can shine and poduce glare which also messes with the cameras picture so i went for matt black foam.
I placed a strip right back to the camera so if i want to i can take the gopro pod off and mount a SD camera and still only see a black nose not a white one.
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0781.jpg)
Works well so far ill see better in day;ight tomorrow, simple but effective :)
Excellent! Just one more question. What width cricket bat repair tape did you buy? Was it 25 or 50mm?
Cheers.
Either will do for various work, the wider 50mm is good for extra strength under the fuse and you can cut it down, but for ailerons only the 25mm is fine :)
Well its just typical aint it lol
I get to the field get all setup, only then i descovered that the DVR powers up on the USB connector but in fact it doesn`t actually work off the USB !!! :( Oh well thats that out the window till i fit its own power supply.
Next it turns out that if you keep the Gopro on record for a large amount of time then sony vegas 9 cant hack it, it keeps crashing lol
So anyway had a nice fly around Yearby bank, liked the flight characteristics and found the small Gopro live out screen was nothing really to get upset about. Yes its smaller but wide fov was great and seeing the OSD display was miles better. Only went 1km out but Dragonlink and Gopro seemed to not be bothered with each other in the slightest.
While i figure out how to edit the video, heres a screen shot from the GoPro footage
All in all quite happy maiden done and sucessfull
(http://s1.postimage.org/1uz3lq3gk/vlcsnap_53459.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1uz3lq3gk/)
The image from the still looks ace. Hope u get the viedo sorted m8.
Today i swapped over my standard futaba servo that was juddering around centre for a GWS 125 1T 360 degree servo. Now pan is a full 360 degrees
Also fitted the same lights Jay has after he impressed me with his, i put mine in a different flashing order, probably not correct but i think i like it in that order the best for me
Heres a video of it all done :)
EZ so far (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h15nAaKRuWk#)
Thats awesome Ian!
Fair do's its coming along great!
How did you get Ch 6 to work like that??
I set my ailerons to 1 and 5, but 6 wont do anything..
Cant figure it out... :(
Thanks Iain
I put my channel 5 assigned switch to swith E ( 3 position switch ) turned off flaps and flap trims, then it works alone ;)
Hi All.
I've been watching this build with interest from on the side lines, way out in fact, Kabul where FPV would be very interesting I'm sure but the Yanks would probably shoot it down.
I have an Easystar waiting for me curtesy of Simon of course. I am considering a similar Vtx to you actually the 10Mw one correct? I have also read on here that you can increase the aerial length on the 10Mw, would this make a big difference or would the former be a better choice?
As I said I have all the good stuff waiting for when I get home on the 22nd of December, might just get it ready for a Christmas morning flight.
Interesting to see all the different ways to go about the installations obviously a bit of planning involved. On the ailerons what method of operation did you use? I was thinking of maybe a bellcrank arrangement to the centre of the control.
Will keep watching with interest.
Thanks
Chris
When using small powered video transmitters theres not much real gain to be had by playing with the antenna configuration. The receiver antenna on the other hand is the way to increase performance drastically
I went for very simple aileron control. Plastic hinged control surface, pom horns with holes dead inline with the pivot point for no mechanical differential.
Well took it out today for a fly, i was sceptical with the fog.
First off i picked up a new trick i didn`t know about from Shikra, i was on msn talking to him and was on about my 360 pan. With such a lot of movement the pot controlling it was very sensative. Because i didnt want to literally look right round with my head tracker i had that set to 180 degrees and that was very sensative too.
What i needed we came to was dual rates on my channel. I would only use the full 360 degrees now and again. So 180 degrees dual rate would decrease sensativity of head tracker an pot by 50%
To do this Shikra told me a nice little transmitter mix. I went into mix 1. Set master to channel 6 and slave channel to 6 also. What this does is read the channel 6 pot, put the mix inbetween that and the output. To get 180 degrees of movement i needed 50% throw, so the rt % was set to -50% both ways. Assigned a spare switch and hey presto, flick the switch and you have either 180 or 360 throw. Nice one Shikra ! :)
Anyway when i got to the field it didnt take long to suss the gopro does not like low light. The picture i was receiving live from it was ok on the ground, but as soon as i got any decent altitud it got so dark i really couldnt fly. Flying itself wasn`t straight forward. For some reason, after launch, straight after it rolled right over to the right, like loads ! After a few seconds scrapping i got control and managed to level it out with aileron and rudder trims. I couldn`t for the life of my work out what was wrong. Nothing had changed. No weight had shifted ???
Still heres a video, i was supposd to put annotations on it on youtube but after 4 failed attempts tonight vimeo did it first time
Ez flight with GoPro onboard (http://www.vimeo.com/17011077)
My 40 amp Emax ESC couldnt take the punishment i gave it today. After a few flights it was ready to give up. But out of a steep dive on WOT i did clock up 82mph before it did :)
60 amp Turnigy Plush now fitted to cope :)
Update :
Oh man sometimes my stupidity even amazes me lol. Some people say to get your head round a problem sometimes you have to take a step back from it. Well i took a few. Sat down watching children in need and glanced over to the EZ and suddely it became quite apparent what was up. I said nothing had changed since my last flight. Well it had. I had added re-inforced tape to the body and the wings. What i had also done was tape one wing at a much sharper curve than the other. When i was sat the other side of the room it was obvious. One wing straight, the other curved round, that would explain the massive ammounts of trim i had to add. Oh well problem solved, everydays a learning day :)
Edit : added a few seconds clip from what i could see via gopro live out :
Untitled (http://vimeo.com/18143035)
Ive finally finished it lol
Ive now beefed up the ailerons and elevator. They both really flex quite badly so some 1.5mm carbon rods were added and taped over with glass fibre reinforced tape. Much much better now :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0801.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0802.jpg)
Next was GPS sensor, i noticed a few times it was loosing sat lock. Turned out my sensor was showing up faulty, but i was also concerned that it maybe a bit close to the 2.4ghz transmitter even though before i have never had any issues. I soldered up the socket on the sensor and relocated it further back.
I couldnt get much heat shrink over the plug and cable and plug at a time and didnt want to drag it through and damage it so i cut 6" of heat shrink at a time, then heated up the first piece then overlapped the second unshrunk pice over to get a decent protection over the length.
I then attached some velcro to the EZ fuse and sensor so it can come off with the pod still. Job done
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0798.jpg)
Oh yeah, i replaced all velcro ( red ) with white to match the colour scheme, god how pathetically anal i know :)
nice one ian that should help with flex in those high speed dives ..lol
hello ian
could you tell me please how you have wired the Gopro up i see you have wires from the usb and the jack plug.have you used the gopro battery or take power from the rx.rgds jeff
Hi Jeff, what i did wiring wise was get an angles 2.5mm 4 pole jack plug prewired, i took the video out wire and ground and took them to my EZOSD video in and round.
The USB connector was one left lying around. i cut and stripped the cable and took the red and black to the Immersion 10mw vtx Camera 5v supply and ground. It powers the camera as i fly :)
Quote from: Coyote on October 21, 2010, 09:03:54 PM
Ok quick update :
First the camera pod, because pan servos tend to be first effected and need to be kept super still i added a ferrite ring to the servo lead. 5 wraps rounds enough to work effectivly
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0681.jpg)
Next thing i wanted was to mount the vtx and EZOSD so they were accessable so i could adjust the Osd without ripping everything to bits or change channels on the vtx. Here`s how ive mounted them :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0684.jpg) (http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0685.jpg)
The height was govened by the antenna height i wanted and cable connectors having to clear the lipo. Also there would be a birds nest of wires so i donned the soldering iron to simplify the wiring and improving clearance :
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0683.jpg)
Next on the list was to mount the current sensor to the EZ. By doing this it means fitting the pod is a three wire affair, all connectors are locking apart from the servo connection to pan servo.
I mounted the current sensor, tapped into it and got the feeds for the RSSI reading and display toggle input. RSSI on a UHF receiver might seem pointless but i think that monitoring it would let me know of any problems and might save an accident.
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0687.jpg)
I then fitted the elevator servo wire, the pan servo wire and ailerons. Then spent a bit of time making it as neat as i possibly could :)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n39/cayote64/DSCF0688.jpg)
Hi Ian, this is such a great thread, would be cool to be able to supersize the pics, I just want to see all the detail ! :)
Cheers,
D
I wish i could but i shrunk the originals Dirk so i cant restore them im afraid :(