Hi All,
I needed a fatshark compatible video transmitter, and once the need was identified it was like oxygen and I couldn't live without it!
so as they were out of stock all across the planet I decided to buy the module and make the supply board for it.
here:- http://www.firstpersonview.co.uk/transmitters/5.8ghz/airwave-5.8ghz-wireless-rf-av-module?zenid=516e6358ccd2991caf91aa5175a1d974 (http://www.firstpersonview.co.uk/transmitters/5.8ghz/airwave-5.8ghz-wireless-rf-av-module?zenid=516e6358ccd2991caf91aa5175a1d974)
Anyone who watches the RC model reviews YouTube videos will have heard of the FPV backpack.
this is for the other flavours of Vtx that transmit on the odd numbers. (the frequencies all end 05) This is a different pinout standard to the Airwave module so I had to make something different.
I searched some threads and did a lot of reading but there was no step by step guide.
I have a basic education in electronics and seeing as the module does the hard work I figured it wouldn't be too hard to make a similar "backpack" for the Airwave module.
anyway here is what I did.
firstly the documents that are available that support this module
DATA SHEET FOR PRODUCT
http://www.dpcav.com/data_sheets/AWM661TX.pdf (http://www.dpcav.com/data_sheets/AWM661TX.pdf)
LOGICAL DIAGRAM OF BOARD
http://f1chf.free.fr/PDF/airwave%20modules/AWM651T-eval.pdf (http://f1chf.free.fr/PDF/airwave%20modules/AWM651T-eval.pdf)
The circuit diagram I used an LED to give an indication of power and other than that it is just the logical circuit above put down in a circuit diagram.
attached below is the circuit diagram.
Parts list.
2x 10k resistors MCF 0.25W 10K RESISTOR, 10K, 250MW, 5% 2p each
1x LED had one in my toolbox.
1x 5v voltage regulator MC7805ACTG IC, V REG +5.0V, 7805, TO-220-3 46p each
1x 3 switch DIP switch A6S3102H SWITCH, DIP, 3 WAY, SEALED 85p each
1x 470uF capacitor. ECA1CHG471 CAPACITOR, 470UF, 16V 22p each
Small piece of varoboard £2.99 from maplin
A strip of board header pins. £1.30 from Maplin
A servo extension lead.
an old bind plug
various heatshrink etc..
A sharp tipped soldering iron, preferably low wattage.
A cloverleaf antenna for build instructions see RC model reviews or flite test
the components were all bought from Farnell. (UK electronics retailer)
I cut the varoboard to give me 9 tracks (like the module) and then I positioned the largest components on and moved it as far up the board as I could to give me the length to cut the thing down.
I ended up with a board about 50mm square.
to work out which tracks to cut position the switch so it corresponds with tracks 1-3 when viewed from above. then under the switch module you need to break the tracks so there is no circuit. use a small drill bit and drill into the track using a hole as a guide.
the next 2 tracks (4 + 5) need to be cut in order to mount the resistors. pins 6 and 9 are left alone. pin 8 is cut so the capacitor can be mounted.
pin 7 is cut under the middle leg of the regulator, to give an in and an out side on the rail.
in order to make life a bit easier I ran the components onto both sides. the resistors LED and capacitor are mounted on the side opposite the tracks and soldered on top.
First I mounted the switch and pin headers. then the regulator capacitor LED and resistors.
then the regulator.
I soldered an extra pin header onto the video rail from the back so I could connect a servo wire to it.
Camera power is taken from the Vtx side of the rail so it is regulated at 5v.
And then finally I soldered a piece of wire from the off cut of a resistor across the GND pins All rails are connected except video out and +5v (pins 6+7) I used a small piece of heatshrink so they cant short this out.
I then attached the unit to the pins by splaying the module pins out and the pin headers in. simply solder one of them together then align the pins and get soldering.
Power is provided from a servo extension lead that connects to the Vin on the regulator and Gnd.
BEFORE YOU POWER ON !! check continuity with a meter. I hadn't broken a track completely and it was under the switch so I couldn't see it I only found it by partially disassembling the board.
so taking it all into account I spent less than £15 on a 25mw Vtx. it definately looks home made but it is incredibly small, light and can be arranged to be different shapes depending on what you are putting it on.
I found it uses the frequency at the other end of the range to the fatshark module I have which I find useful, but I think I have the dip switch the wrong way around on mine... just hit the buttons on your fatsharks to select the channel.
Some pictures attached below.
hope someone reads this, finds it useful and has a go. it is a bit intimidating but for the sake of £15 it will keep you out of trouble for a couple of evenings... Obviously with 25mw of power it may be worth investing in some decent antennas as 5.8 ghz stuff is pretty hard to make in an optimal fashion unless you have test equipment to chack the tuning, and a three decimal place vernier to measure it out with. but for a small quad or something you are not going to go far with then it is ideal.
If anyone spots mistakes let me know and I will update..
have fun
Steve
Ps. and if my crap soldering skills can get it working then anyone can do it :P
Excellent article. Congratulations on getting it sorted!
regards
Andy
Thanks, I'll make a neater one when I get time... :laugh:
A lot of the items I bought required a few of them to be bought, so I have enough parts to make 3 of them. 5 if I hardwire the channel frequency.
/Steve
Why have you took your audio outputs to 100k resistors ?
Quote from: Coyote on May 15, 2013, 01:31:55 PM
Why have you took your audio outputs to 100k resistors ?
I think I suggested to do that! (If the input is high impedance then it can oscillate and add af noise into the module). Its probably fine to leave audio inputs open circuit though!
regards
Andy
Yup, Skyscraper advised...
obviously you could replace those with capacitors 33Uf from memory and actually use the audio circuits. but I don't like the sound of wind and brushless motors...
cheers
Steve
Quote from: stevec on May 15, 2013, 02:05:17 PM
Yup, Skyscraper advised...
obviously you could replace those with capacitors 33Uf from memory and actually use the audio circuits. but I don't like the sound of wind and brushless motors...
cheers
Steve
You could add the capacitors ( in fact small one like 0.1 uF would do) and ground the inputs or put them to supply if they are electrolytic. That might have been better.would be Interesting to see which option used less current.
Would also be interesting to leave the audio open circuit and see what if anything you can hear coming out the other end!
hmm.. I have one of these lying around so perhaps I should test it rather than talking about it :)
regards
Andy
Bloody el i know who to look for for some techy help from now now on lol.
hey mark, you're not the rebel who flew around the pleasure beach a while back are you?
:P It's okay, you're among friends here :D
I use that vTX on my mQX but its single cell so only needed the bypass cap :)
Hi SteveC,
Nice project. You can also get the modules from Active Robots if Simon runs out. They also supply a 600mW version with heatsink ;)
http://www.active-robots.com/radio/data-video-audio-modules/5-8ghz-av-modules/5-8ghz-video-audio-transmitter-module-1.html (http://www.active-robots.com/radio/data-video-audio-modules/5-8ghz-av-modules/5-8ghz-video-audio-transmitter-module-1.html)
Nice job bud, perhaps you can put all the components in a bag and sell it as a kit, then do a youtube video instruction video.
:) G
Quote from: Steve W on August 07, 2013, 02:41:11 AM
hey mark, you're not the rebel who flew around the pleasure beach a while back are you?
:P It's okay, you're among friends here :D
Ha no but it was on my todo list. Beaten to it lol.
done much the same for my buggy. i put mine in an ally project box, the module is clamped to it for heatsinking. i also used a bog standard 7805. the only question on that is, as my buggy is 2 cell, will the 7805 drop out before the lipo alarm goes off? linear regs usually need at least 2 volt more supply than their output voltage.
to make a good kit, an etched PCB with the correct, ie 2mm, pin spacing for the module would be much appreciated by many of us. any one on here do PCB etching?
Have you got any videos of this project in action ?
No video yet, I have just got a little mini skywalker that I am going to throw it into for some close in fun, but I don't have any way of recording from my goggles...
I checked the reception in the house and it starts breaking up about 50 feet away with lots of walls in the way. I hope to get out to do a range test in a field soon just to see if flying with a plank is feasible it was originally designed for a quad which by its nature tends to be closer in than a plane.
/Steve
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Quote from: quadbod on August 07, 2013, 08:49:03 PM
to make a good kit, an etched PCB with the correct, ie 2mm, pin spacing for the module would be much appreciated by many of us. any one on here do PCB etching?
A quick draft. (Note the IC is really a DIL switch - my software doesn't have DIl switches, but the footprint is the same). I've added a Jumper (J1) for selection of raw 12v or regulated 5v as the power source for the camera).
I could make is tiny with dual sided PCB but it's not necessary and adds complications for some "home etchers". All that's needed now is dragging the header pins to 2mm spacing (from 2.5mm which takes no time) - are they exactly 2mm apart?
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/5vregforImmersionRCcd_zps83882e05.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/5vregforImmersionRC2_zps797e698d.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/5vregforImmersionRC_zps44478392.jpg)
Here is one with 2mm pin spacing and audio pins with capacitors.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/5vregforImmersionRC2mmspacing_zps192b1298.jpg)
Let me know if you want a PDF of the solder artwork (etching stencil). I can make these but it's not really financially viable. I'd be doing it more for fun, but that would wear off quickly :-p
Etching is super simple with a laser printer, some cheap thin paper, and an iron. I did a "instructable" on it.
This, but much simple as it's only single sided. Just lay the design on your copper board and iron on!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Consistent-Cheap-Toner-Transfer-Method-for-Si/ (http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Consistent-Cheap-Toner-Transfer-Method-for-Si/)
If I made one I'd do it with the larger 2.5mm pin spacing, and not actually install a 9 pin header. I'd solder 9 wires from the board to the Vtx - less fragile.
This is well cool. I love it.
/steve
looks great!
regards
Andy
yes, the pin spacing is 2mm. the data sheet is on line (don't know how to do links like that)
There should be a link to the data sheet in the original post.
I think I may have to knock one of these up. looks like I am going to maplin later to buy some etching stuff, never done that before so it looks like fun.
/Steve
PCB fabrication
http://oshpark.com/ (http://oshpark.com/) allow you to upload eagle files and will produce low volumes of boards - I used them to to a bruce simpson FPV backpack and they're great. I'd highly recommend them as I ordered three boards, one was faulty, and Laen sent me another three boards foc. You just have to wait for shipping from the US.
I'd never used a service like this and uploaded eagle files which I'd sourced from rcmodel reviews forum btw - I not electronic expert BTW
cheers
Will
Hi Roger could you upload a version of the file that the company in the post above would recognise?
then I will order from them.
Cheers
Steve
Wow - that service looks great. I'll redo it as a 2 sided board for you. Do you want the pins spaced at 2mm for direct soldering to the Vtx?
P.s I'd still make these myself as it's fun and easy. My Instructable tells you how but the basic process is:
a) Print the pcb design from a pdf onto cheap paper with a laser printer - the type of paper you get supermarket flyers on
b) buy copper pcb board from ebay/maplins - for this board you need about 50p worth.
c) Using an iron, transfer the design to the copper.
d) rub the paper off the copper under a running tap
e) put etching solution (pennies again - either sodium persulphate (clean) or ferric chloride (messy) in a plastic tub
f) put the board in. remove when all the visible copper is gone.
g) wash off toner with nail polish remover (acetone).
Done!
Well, what a great PCB fab site! - Thanks Will! - Unless I'm missing something, they are somewhat of a bargain! - 3 boards, dual sided, with silkscreen, $10 and free postage. Blimey!
Ok... Here are two projects. One is dual sided and meant for the PCB fab, or anyone if you can make dual side at home, though there is no need as the single sided version is only a touch bigger as you'll see below.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Dualpcbreal_zps4b93798c.png)
It is designed for the Immersion vTx to mount on the BACK side, the underside. So components on top, vTx underneath. The pins of the vTx should slide straight into the PCB.
Below is what it will look like when made by the fab linked by Will.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/WebPCB_zps36dbd904.png)
You need the following file to upload to the fab. (not used this file host before so let me know if there is a problem)
http://www.filedropper.com/immers5v (http://www.filedropper.com/immers5v)
The board ends up being 3cm wide by 4.3cm long - basically a little bigger than the vTx.
OK... next, below is the single sided version. This is designed for making at home if you do your own etching. It's much the same but I've spaced things out to make single sided routing easier.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Singlepcbreal_zps4f42e20b.png)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Singlepcbsilkscreen_zpsdde0701e.png)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Singlepcbbottomcopper_zps6c256224.png)
Above is the copper. I've done it for you in a 1:1 scale PDF below. Make sure in your print options there is no scaling / fit-to-page. This board comes out at around 3.6cm wide by 4.8cm long.
http://www.filedropper.com/5vregforimmersionrc2mmpinspacingsinglemanualv2 (http://www.filedropper.com/5vregforimmersionrc2mmpinspacingsinglemanualv2)
Note:
I HAVE NOT TESTED THIS - use my plans at your own risk. I've checked the wiring at a glance but will give it a thorough checking tomorrow. It's a very simple circuit so it should be OK. (update - just followed every track on the 2 sided pcb and unless I'm missing a glaring error it all seems fine)
The board headers for power, camera voltage selection, audio and video are all standard PCB headers (http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/pcb-pin-header (http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/pcb-pin-header)). Servo leads plug straight onto these.
The vTx should come with it's own headers spaced at 2mm. these go straight into my board at the top. The end pin marked with "-" on my board is Gnd.
I have marked video "signal" with "s" and GND with "-".
You will need a small jumper to select if your cam wants 5 or 12v. It's positions are marked on the board.
Will - I've never ordered a fabbed board - do the pads come plated through the hole?
Hi Roger, it looked ok to me.
I have ordered 6 from the US site.
came out at about 13 quid!
I'll let you know when they come in.
Roger Pm me your address and I'll send you one for doing the board layout.
(it will probably be several weeks until it happens)
cheers
Steve
Roger,
Is it ok if I add the files you created to my Flitetest article?
I'll make one and ensure it works first but if it is all ok, and I can't see why it wouldn't be it would complete the article nicely.
obviously I will credit you for the design of the board.
Cheers
Steve
Of course Steve, no probs. I've just updated the PDF for the single sided version, I forgot you don't need to mirror the pcb when laser printing the bottom. This doesn't effect the double sided one you have done.
Be interesting to see the finished PCB. I've been testing some of my own boards and am tempted to have some printed.
Roger
Quote from: RogerD on September 09, 2013, 08:34:12 PM
Note:
Will - I've never ordered a fabbed board - do the pads come plated through the hole?
Hi Roger,
Yes they're plated through the holes - here's a shot of the two sided board for my Bruce Simpson vtx. It works a treat! Sorry for the poor lighting in the shot but you can just about see the copper all the way through ;)
cheers
Will
What a great resource. I've completely redesigned a PCB of mine for professional production. The catch with home made 2 sided PCBs is no through the hole copper, and also vias are a pain in the butt!
You guys really lost me on the PCB design, but if anyone could make a tiny module into something slightly more plug and play, then many people would probably buy one. I use the 'other' frequency based module to fly my mini quad, it was very simple to wire up as it was literally video in/ground/3.3v/antenna. I've read this and still haven't a clue.
It's slightly annoying that my mini quad is tiny and can go/fly anywhere, but I'm lumbered with dragging around the groundstation because I need and external RC305 vrx to get the video to my fatsharks
Quote from: RogerD on September 16, 2013, 03:34:56 PM
What a great resource. I've completely redesigned a PCB of mine for professional production. The catch with home made 2 sided PCBs is no through the hole copper, and also vias are a pain in the butt!
You can get through hole vias on Ebay in various sizes. I got some recently, but not tried them out yet. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-best-quality-pcb-copper-via-vias-through-hole-rivets-0-4-0-6-REGISTERED-/321214073745?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac9d9cb91 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-best-quality-pcb-copper-via-vias-through-hole-rivets-0-4-0-6-REGISTERED-/321214073745?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac9d9cb91)
Getting your pcb fabricated is great and looks very professional though I must say
regards
Andy
I got an email the other day saying the boards had been cut from the sheet and were in the post, so week or so should see them in my grubby mitts.
I'll put up some pictures when they arrive.
Cheers
Steve
Nice :-)
(had no idea you could buy vias!)
They came today.
Here are some photos...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/01/5utumyze.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/01/zarynyru.jpg)
Roger one in the post for you, sorry but I only had second class stamps.
I have 4 boards left so any one who wants a kit to make let me know and I'll order some parts. Probably be a tenner delivered unless inflation has hit the component market in the last couple of weeks :D
I know the thread is titled under a fiver but that was making it with varo board...
Cheers
Steve
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
Nice - great to see the little fellow in real life! :-)
Hi Stevec, Can you get me a complete backpack With all the bits and tell me how much you won't.
The only thing I won't be including is the vTx itself, these are 9.99 from first person view.
The parts are en route from Farnell. Price will be 10 quid including fees and postage.
Some photos of the build today...
Unfortunately I damaged the voltage regulator removing it so I can't test it until I get a new one.
Cheers
Steve
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
Fantastic job Steve my soldering is like Shaky Stevens but I'll have a go thanks very much for the update.
Looks great :)
regards
Andy
Hi Guys,
I have 2 people with dibs on a back board so that means I have a spare.
if anyone wants to have a kit I am selling for £10 delivered to the uk including paypal.
I will supply all the parts to make the mother board plus chuck in a short length of coax and if you need it some welding wire so you can knock up an antenna.
there is no build video as it is so straightforward now the board is printed in fact the only potential area for a cock up is mixing up the +ve and -ve on the LED and capacitor (+ve is the long leg)
the finished article looks pretty proffesional with the jumper and header pins on it. overall I am well chuffed with how it has come out.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/03/y8urepu9.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/03/beta5e9a.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/03/jynadejy.jpg)
Cheers
Steve
nice! - Thanks for posting mine - received just now.
(p.s. why did you put the reg on the other side?)
Roger
Because the fat bit of the legs meant it sat up too high so I used shrink on the legs and laid it flat. I couldn't do that from the other side as the pin headers were blocking it... Glad you got it ok.
Cheers Steve
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
Hi all DIY fans ;D
Whilst searching online for info about the nextwave modules for Steve's project - I came across this site www.opencopter.de (http://www.opencopter.de) . Use google translate thingy and you'll see there are pcb layouts and list of components for various nextwave modules including a receiver with rssi as well - good eh?!
Quote from: stevec on October 03, 2013, 12:30:13 PM
Hi Guys,
I have 2 people with dibs on a back board so that means I have a spare.
if anyone wants to have a kit I am selling for £10 delivered to the uk including paypal.
I will supply all the parts to make the mother board plus chuck in a short length of coax and if you need it some welding wire so you can knock up an antenna.
Cheers
Steve
Hi Steve, do you still have one of these available? I'll take it off your hands if you do, just ordered the module tonight! :)
I don't think I can PM yet since I'm a new member though. :(
Hi matey, yes I have one left, actually I have enough bits for 2...
I'll try a pm..
Cheers Steve
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
Cheers, money sent! Cant even reply to PM's still, think it may be 5 posts!
How does the antenna fit? Is it soldered directly on?
Hi, Yes the antenna solders directly to the board, you could solder an SMA connector onto it but I felt it defeats the object of a lightweight Tx.
/Steve
Got my antennas today so can finally test this, built it up the other day!
Connected it all up and it works a treat! The regulator got really hot when connected directly to a 3S lipo, but I then realised I should just be running it from the Rx power from the ESC. Once this was done it was nice and cool!
Tested indoors and range was a bit ropey, but will give it a bash outside as well. The cable tie is just for support so the module isnt stressing the solder joints too much. Decided to go with an SMA connector so I can easily swap antennae!
Thanks a lot Steve! :D
(http://i.imgur.com/tbKHN2y.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/VwjeunO.jpg)
The reg should run fine on 12v. That's what it's there for.
Quote from: RogerD on October 15, 2013, 05:28:55 PM
The reg should run fine on 12v. That's what it's there for.
Roger is right the reg can handle up to 15 v so 3s will be fine. You can run on 2s but you will not be able to use the 12v feed.
Looks great by the way
/Steve
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
I think I would want a heat sink on there if running at 12v though, I could smell it burning and it was too hot to touch! Excuse my ignorance but what difference does the 5v or 12v feed make?
Either way its good to know its up and running, just need this bloody weather to improve, been wall to wall 20-30mph winds the last 2 weeks here and I'm not brave enough to attempt my first ever fpv flight in that! :(
The switchable feed gives either a 5v or 12v feed to power the camera
It pulls power from either the main supply battery or the voltage regulator depending on how you have the jumper.
/Steve
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
..and it shouldn't get smelly hot - too hot to touch... I use 12v-5v regs in other electonics and they just get a little warm. Only time one got hot was when there was a short in the 5v side - it got hot quick and the 5v faded to less than 1v as it heated up
Quote from: RogerD on September 09, 2013, 08:21:55 PM
Well, what a great PCB fab site! - Thanks Will! - Unless I'm missing something, they are somewhat of a bargain! - 3 boards, dual sided, with silkscreen, $10 and free postage. Blimey!
Ok... Here are two projects. One is dual sided and meant for the PCB fab, or anyone if you can make dual side at home, though there is no need as the single sided version is only a touch bigger as you'll see below.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Dualpcbreal_zps4b93798c.png)
It is designed for the Immersion vTx to mount on the BACK side, the underside. So components on top, vTx underneath. The pins of the vTx should slide straight into the PCB.
Below is what it will look like when made by the fab linked by Will.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/WebPCB_zps36dbd904.png)
You need the following file to upload to the fab. (not used this file host before so let me know if there is a problem)
http://www.filedropper.com/immers5v (http://www.filedropper.com/immers5v)
The board ends up being 3cm wide by 4.3cm long - basically a little bigger than the vTx.
OK... next, below is the single sided version. This is designed for making at home if you do your own etching. It's much the same but I've spaced things out to make single sided routing easier.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Singlepcbreal_zps4f42e20b.png)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Singlepcbsilkscreen_zpsdde0701e.png)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Helis/FPV/Singlepcbbottomcopper_zps6c256224.png)
Above is the copper. I've done it for you in a 1:1 scale PDF below. Make sure in your print options there is no scaling / fit-to-page. This board comes out at around 3.6cm wide by 4.8cm long.
http://www.filedropper.com/5vregforimmersionrc2mmpinspacingsinglemanualv2 (http://www.filedropper.com/5vregforimmersionrc2mmpinspacingsinglemanualv2)
Does anyone have the channel settings for these boards?
The channel specs are in the data sheet. Can't remember them off the top of my head.
with them all set to 0 mine is at the first channel on my fatsharks.
hope this helps
Steve