So I splashed out, and a QAV540g is on it's way :)
I have only messed with a phantom before, so never actually built a quad before so I thought I'd start a thread to log my build and ask questions which I hope you fine folks will answer.
I'm not in a rush to finish the build, it'll have to be done as funds allow, but so far I have ordered:
QAV540g
Carbon Landing Gear
Lumenier 30 amp ESC with SimonK Firmware x4
FX4006-13 740kv x 4
Lumenier 10x4.5 Carbon Fiber Props
LayerLens for GoPro 3
And I have a new Naza V2 with GPS.
So first stupid question is:
Lumenier suggest the alexmos board for the gimbal, but I get the impression tuning etc can be a bit of a holy grail, I have a Tarot gimbal on my Phantom which is ace, if I bought another Tarot board and installed in on the 540 would it work?
http://www.oomodel.com/bgc-20-gimbal-control-board-brushless-camera-mount-sensor-p-65910.html (http://www.oomodel.com/bgc-20-gimbal-control-board-brushless-camera-mount-sensor-p-65910.html)
Cheers,
Muds
If your using a GoPro 3 then yes the Tarot gimbal will be fine
Sorry, to clarify the board will run the 540g's gimbal motors?
Muds :)
No I said gimbal :) If you used the gimbal with controller it would work, using other hardware is totally different, the driver chips are very small so might not be able to cope with bigger setups. They might though, but you would be starting the PID process all over again just like with tuning an ALexmos setup
Thanks for clarifying. Alexmos it is then.
Muds
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New toy has just turned up, 4.5 days to deliver from Florida, I think thats impressive :)
On the downside I have to wait to get home from work to have a proper looksee >:(
Patience is a virtue me ole mum used to say.... yeah (?)
Muds :)
Don't forget the pics... ;D
I have a 540G. The build is reasonably simple. Just look closely at the manual when you build the gimbal. The holes for the pivots are not central fore and aft. The holes should be closer to the front than the back.
Any questions, post here or pm me.
Cheers guys, I spent the evening putting it together, gimbal built, dirty frame with esc's installed, motors bolted on (me likey the fx 4006 jobsters), clean frame bolted up and all put together, I'll do some pics in the morning.
Easy so far, the only thing I have and haven't installed is the Naza, is there an optimum position for this?
Muds :)
One thing that I forgot to mention, never pick it up by the clean section. Always put your hand underneath and pick it up by the dirty section or you will strain the orange bobbins.
If you do manage to separate a bobbin they can be glued back together with thin cyno.
Thanks BO19, It's dead on the CG now. Good tip Simon, that sounds like a sensible habit to get into :)
Here are some naff piccys, I can see why people wait to get all the bits before they start, I'm waiting on some cable sleeve, it means I can't finish much up untill it arrives :(
While on the 'things to get' thought, I gotta nother question.
I think I'll go for this flight cam Lumenier CU-690 Ultra - 690TVL Ultra WDR
So, Ezosd or Naza OSDmini? I like the neat idea on the mini just clicking into place, but the Ezosd has a current sensor which everyone seems to miss when they switch?
Muds
Hi folks,
I'm really hoping you can help. On Friday I took delivery from Getfpv of a spanking new 540g, Lumenier 30a esc's, the new fx motors etc.
I built it as per instructions, set up the Naza so everything looks good to start (the only thing I haven't touched is any gains).
When I turn on all the lights do their stuff, GPS lock etc, problem is I can't arm the motors!
I have plugged each motor directly into the RX (spekky 9ch dsmx) and set each hi and low point on the throttle, each arms and works ok.
Back to the Naza and nothing, no arm sound nada.
My question is, have I set up motors/esc's up correctly?
Once the hi/low throttle setting is set does the esc remember it?
I assume I should hear the arm sound on start up?
I hope I haven't got a dodgy Naza :-\
Help!
Muds
I should add that when the naza is on, If I remove a esc and push it back in it makes the arm sound.
IIRC you can set the motor idle in the Naza software. Try experimenting with different settings and see if that helps with arming.
It also helps to calibrate the receiver in the naza software (centerpoints, 'throws' etc.)
Usually you should get at least the startup sound form the ESCs (the one where they count the cells etc.)
I told you this was my stupid question thread, turns out the 'ele' needed reversing on my TX, all working now :-[ :-[ :-[
In my defence, calibrating a up/down movement on a left/right bar is always gonna suck!
Muds :)
Don't worry - we ALL been there. ;)
Lol :+
So next up is something I'm stuck on. I want to use a 12v FPV camera http://www.fpvgear.co.uk/lumenier-cu-690-ultra-690tvl-ultra-wdr.html (http://www.fpvgear.co.uk/lumenier-cu-690-ultra-690tvl-ultra-wdr.html) with naza iOSD and go pro 3BE camera on the gimbal, I want to be able to switch camera views in flight, I'm using a 4s pack, I'm not bothered about seeing the OSD through the goggles on the GP3.
The voltage thing and how it's all connected up is what confuses me, 12v and 5v?, what leads etc?
Muds :)
Just get a 12v (ish) regulator.
Tap into the main flight battery and power the camera and VTX from there.
connect the video cable from the camera to the video in of the iOSD and the iOSD video out to the vtx video in.
Thanks, sounds easier than I thought.
She's just about flight ready now, Naza is all set up, I'm confident it's good. So just the gimbal to balance, FPV camers, iosd, reg and Alexmos board to get and fit.
Muds :)
I had a test fly today, I had to lower the gains in 3 steps but fourth attempt seem PDG!
After 12mins of flying around and hovering I out 4000mah back into the 5000mah pack, perfect.
I had another flight with the camera on (gimbal motors taped to stop rotation) and the results reveled some 'jello'. On close inspection it seems the roll motor has a small amount of play fore and aft in the shaft. I might be able to take this slop out with some wafer thin washers behind the circlip on the back of the moot (If I can find some somewhere?)
Mostly though, it real nice to fly, a bit like a limo!
Muds
Thanks for the help guys, I've finished building my first kit quad, and learned loads. I have a new pair of attitude sd goggles so no excuses, my first FPV flight awaits as soon as the rain stops and the wind drops to 'half a chance' levels.
I put a vid switcher on so I can frame the go pro, and added manual tilt/roll to TX from the alexmos board. It all seems ok although I expect it to require some bodging with the PID's tuning.
Expect a short flight vid soon with a long sweeping up the bits session to flourish.
Muds :)
Looking good Mudders, looks like you missed a screw on the gimbal`s IMU sensor box though :)
Cheers Coyote, yep I fixed that. The box is milled out to accept the IMU but not enough, so I cut a square out of the lid to let the IMU socket. Now the lid sits flat. That's the only thing that's wrong with the kit.
Muds :)
I should add that I'm using Flyn's antennas so I'm expecting some impressive range ;)
Another 540g finished, this time for a mate.
Looks good mate. Makes me wanna tag along and compare it to the disco pro.
Nice build. Just a suggestion: as you have got some undercarriage, you might get a better picture and cause less interference if you swing the vtx antenna down below the quad instead of it being so close to the GPS receiver. Most of the time you fly with the quad above you hence, in this position, the vtx has a clear line of sight without motors and batteries getting in the way. Try it both ways beyond 500m as see if there is a difference.
Mick
Cheers for the tip, I was unaware the vrx might interfere with the GPS. I have not had any issues so far with my 540, but I haven't really been more than 200m away.
Now it's back to making a decision on a fixed wing toy for me :-\
Muds :)
Here she is all lit up
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Looking good Mudders :)
Quote from: Mudders on October 20, 2013, 09:41:08 AM
Cheers Coyote, yep I fixed that. The box is milled out to accept the IMU but not enough, so I cut a square out of the lid to let the IMU socket. Now the lid sits flat. That's the only thing that's wrong with the kit.
The box is correct for the v1 IMU. By the time the Lumenier had had the box made the v2 IMU had come out which has the socket for the cable which is too high and in the wrong place. Fortunately the GUI now allows you to mount the IMU in any direction.
v1 on the left, v2 on the right (they are actually the same size. The camera was playing tricks!)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj36/jodel_bucket/2EC03C52-EEC5-461C-A320-D75234971131-10796-0000040E1EBC3BEE_zps385d2772.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj36/jodel_bucket/F9EC8B23-5931-4C9B-A97D-84E662423780-10796-0000040E02CCA6D1_zps4c1cdd61.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj36/jodel_bucket/743FF2A6-FFA1-4D0A-8276-1AF58C988B78-10796-0000040DDCCD97A0_zpse08c8bfe.jpg)
Nice :)
Ah, that explains it, cheers Simon. On this second one we milled the box out which cured that!
I just got back from delivering the beast. Everything seems spot on a d the led strip works well.
Quick snap of the first flight
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