Thought I would start a build thread for my teksumo as its starting to get tricky and thought a bit of problem sharing/solving would be in order.
Its an old plank thats getting a new life so more of an upgrade than anything else.
Spec
Teksumo :- Its had a thin plywood base stuck on and holes cut for electrics and battery , that's about it realy.
motor :- currently an old axn lump but to be upgraded to sunnysky 2208 1500kv + 8" prop
esc :- 35a littlebee summer ( it was cheep )
servos :- currently hobbyking cheepos , might change to emax but they have been reliable so far
FPV:- home made 200mw tx , sony had camera in a plastic measuring spoon, osd from control board
GPS :- cheepo from bangood with no mag, did have a bn-880 on it but it got blistering hot .
Flight controller:- Omnibus F4 pro from hobbyrc.co.uk (OSD / Blackbox/current sensor etc)
receiver:- D4R on sPPM
Inav version 1.9
Now I have to admit getting this INAV connected has been a struggle , but nearly there now just need the final pieces.
First issue
I'm struggling with trying to get the pan servo to work properly , no amount of fettling with "servo gimbal" or the servo tabs gets it to actually work in real life despite the motors tab showing that it should be.
I can use the "forward aux channels to servo outputs" option to get a result but I wanted to allocate it to channel 8 , something you cant do this way as it puts aux 5+6 from transmitter to pwm5+6 on the board with no options to change it.
Second issue
Inav does the wing elevon mixing for you but I can't seem to set any seperate rates for the 2 , i really need the elevator mix to be around 50% of the aileron mix for the Tek to fly right. Is there a way to do this and if so How?
Will no doubt be a bunch of other issues but hopefully this will get it in the air.
Pics to follow and can post settings if folks want
Cheers
Paul
Its a squeeze in there , unfortunately the f4 pro onboard 3a switching bec isn't connected to the servo rail and the "filtered" vtx+camera pin only filters if you run it at 5v ( which my vtx aint) . So there's a separate 5v regulator + a filter which I hadn't planned for. Didn't know this when I bought it so would prob get a non pro version next time.
(https://s31.postimg.org/xf0z58jjr/IMG_20180403_103158679_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xf0z58jjr/)
(https://s31.postimg.org/vn80aed2f/IMG_20180403_103243719_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vn80aed2f/)
(https://s31.postimg.org/hutlevwmf/IMG_20180403_113220523_HDR_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hutlevwmf/)
well went for a test flight today ...didn't go well
For some reason it just shut down and the tek crashed . The stick position on shut down is not the radio /reciever failsafe position and I haven't set up any other failsafes. Was in passthrough / manual mode the whole time and no warnings from my transmitter so 95% sure its the inav board is the issue.
3 flights lasting less than 30 seconds each and every time it just locked up and crashed . The log shows it with throttle at zero and a slight down /left stick after it locks up , and it re-starts on its own shortly after the crash .
i haven't a scooby ????
(https://s9.postimg.org/jenoz69qz/crash.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jenoz69qz/)
The build looked good, I'm not at all sold on the iNav.
Yep I'm feeling the same , I had baseflights "Patrik" version on a naze board fitted before , it worked well until I fried it .
The plank version of inav+ the not so plane friendly omnibus is not the best combo In my op , it promises so much but doesn't deliver ..
I've just fired it up again and taken the plank for a walk around the garden while running the motor .....no issues ...
Might try a flight again tomorrow with no bluetooth or sd card installed , c how it goes.
Good luck ! :)
Quote from: dirtyharry on April 05, 2018, 06:35:59 PM
well went for a test flight today ...didn't go well
For some reason it just shut down and the tek crashed . The stick position on shut down is not the radio /reciever failsafe position and I haven't set up any other failsafes. Was in passthrough / manual mode the whole time and no warnings from my transmitter so 95% sure its the inav board is the issue.
3 flights lasting less than 30 seconds each and every time it just locked up and crashed . The log shows it with throttle at zero and a slight down /left stick after it locks up , and it re-starts on its own shortly after the crash .
i haven't a scooby ????
(https://s9.postimg.org/jenoz69qz/crash.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jenoz69qz/)
I love iNAV, works for me....Its a long shot but do I see a wireless link plugged into the FC..?
Tell me you removed it before flight..?....It transmits on 2.4G..?
BTW...You can use the RAM jumper wire on the F4 board to provide convenient main pack voltage to both camera and VTX....The trick here is to use an LC filter to feed your Omnibus board with main pack power, nice and clean.
:vulture:
yep its a bluetooth link on 2.4. Got them on a few models and never had a problem.
I plotted the rc data line (yellow 3) on the log which I think is the tx throttle , anywho it doesn't drop out at any point so kinda shows radio is OK, but i'm still taking it off just in case.
My board is the pro v3 one with inbuilt current sensor, I don't think you can provide the board via an lc filter without modding the board but it is supposed to have inbuilt filters so should be ok. Servos are on external bec .
....ahhh the joys of the Omnibus , its like a nase 32 with all the external crap built in , and all the useful stuff now left flapping in the breeze.
Quote from: dirtyharry on April 06, 2018, 01:54:09 AM
yep its a bluetooth link on 2.4. Got them on a few models and never had a problem.
I plotted the rc data line (yellow 3) on the log which I think is the tx throttle , anywho it doesn't drop out at any point so kinda shows radio is OK, but i'm still taking it off just in case.
My board is the pro v3 one with inbuilt current sensor, I don't think you can provide the board via an lc filter without modding the board but it is supposed to have inbuilt filters so should be ok. Servos are on external bec .
....ahhh the joys of the Omnibus , its like a nase 32 with all the external crap built in , and all the useful stuff now left flapping in the breeze.
Hi m8,
I have a Bluetooth Module arriving today. Its a real pain removing the FC just so I can plug in the USB cable.
Im hoping I can get it configured and on a plug so I can just plug in to vertical pins when I want to make an adjustment.
I would definitely remove the 2.4G Bluetooth Module before flight, I know on some of them, they are on a switch, so basically as you arm your Flight Controller, the BT Module is disabled.
If I have any trouble, maybe you can help me with it..?
I have been using the V1 F4 boards mostly without onboard current counter and a simple onboard linear 5v regulator, seems to work ok. In fact all my builds have an LC filter cleaning up the main Lipo voltage input, doesn't seem to do any harm. Note they are not adjustable regulators / filters, just a plain filter.
Just started using the F4 boards with switched mode 5v regulators, seem to work ok, but I am still avoiding the onboard amp counters, they are only as good as their calibration and I dont like having my (noisy) motor power travelling through my FC...lol.
Hope you get it sorted...Unplug that BT Module before flight....:)
:vulture:
It's known that the on board regulators can be faulty on all of the Omnibus boards, even the genuine Blue ones. I have a variety of volts at the servo rail from 3.3 to 4.9 for example. And my multimeter is fully calibrated. some of my Futaba rx will failsafe if the volts drop below 3.7 v. There have been issues with the boards rebooting in flight, and Spektrum and FrSky Rx browning out so a capacitor is fitted to a spare rx channel.
Take a look at the Omnibus F4 Pro thread on RC Groups for more info. Some of the cloned v2 boards have dodgy regulators as well which over heat and shut down. As ET warned of in his original thread. What version of iNav did you load on? How did you have the failsafe set?
I have sort of given up with Omnibus at the moment due to the poor quality and lack of info on the different versions. I am impressed with the 10 page install sheet that comes with this http://www.mateksys.com/?portfolio=f405-std. they even have a specific iNav wiring diagram.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
hi Turbines
yea the BT modules are a real help to set things up and the ez-gui app for settings things and checking the model is a fantastic bit of kit .
The modules are fairly easy to set up , but often come ready to go, it is nice to set them with model name n preferred baud with the termite program. Details bottom of post.
Hello BigT , yea those matek ones look like they have had alot of thought put into them , bit more expensive but I already have a f3 omnibus that gets baking hot on usb alone so maybe the omnibus is tooo much pot luck and the extra cost is worth it.
bluetooth setup:-
downloaded termite http://www.compuphase.com/software_termite.htm (http://www.compuphase.com/software_termite.htm)
connect up a ftdi adaptor to the bluetooth module ( + to + , gnd to gnd, tx to rx , rx to tx)
get the comm port in windows "devices and printers" , click on "FT232R USB UART" and look under hardware tab
set this com port in termite
type AT and it should come back with OK , if not you might need to mess with baud rate settings in termite.
things you can change=
AT : check the connection
AT+NAMEx: Change name to x. No space between name and command.
AT+BAUDx : change baud rate, x is baud rate code, no space between command and code. 6= 38400bps ,7 = 57600bps ,8 =115200bps
AT+PINxxxx: change pin, xxxx= 4 numbers, again, no space
so for example type AT+BAUD8 in capitals and press enter , it will say " OK115200" which sets baud at 115200 , you might need to change baud settings in termite to communicate with it again.
Quote from: dirtyharry on April 06, 2018, 12:08:09 PM
hi Turbines
yea the BT modules are a real help to set things up and the ez-gui app for settings things and checking the model is a fantastic bit of kit .
The modules are fairly easy to set up , but often come ready to go, it is nice to set them with model name n preferred baud with the termite program. Details bottom of post.
Hello BigT , yea those matek ones look like they have had alot of thought put into them , bit more expensive but I already have a f3 omnibus that gets baking hot on usb alone so maybe the omnibus is tooo much pot luck and the extra cost is worth it.
bluetooth setup:-
downloaded termite http://www.compuphase.com/software_termite.htm (http://www.compuphase.com/software_termite.htm)
connect up a ftdi adaptor to the bluetooth module ( + to + , gnd to gnd, tx to rx , rx to tx)
get the comm port in windows "devices and printers" , click on "FT232R USB UART" and look under hardware tab
set this com port in termite
type AT and it should come back with OK , if not you might need to mess with baud rate settings in termite.
things you can change=
AT : check the connection
AT+NAMEx: Change name to x. No space between name and command.
AT+BAUDx : change baud rate, x is baud rate code, no space between command and code. 6= 38400bps ,7 = 57600bps ,8 =115200bps
AT+PINxxxx: change pin, xxxx= 4 numbers, again, no space
so for example type AT+BAUD8 in capitals and press enter , it will say " OK115200" which sets baud at 115200 , you might need to change baud settings in termite to communicate with it again.
Hi m8,
Thanks for the info...I already have a little prog to generate a VCP thanks, and something to load firmware onto my BT Module (it has a micro usb on it)
It's all rather new to me though, and its likely it will be a problem for me, but we will see...
The Matek FC sounds interesting, their stuff always looks good quality to me..
:vulture: