Well thanks to shuntridge selling his x8
its now all mine :)
looking forward to flying it although I think after out chat he'll get to see it flying again :)
and looks like he has me looking at the FY auto pilot...
dam it more money to be spent grrrr....
:D :D
Looking sweet Mark :)
Hope it flys as good for you as it did for me. Ritewing Zephyr has been ordered and will be here tomorrow.... YIPEEEE!!!!!
Glad to hear you have ZII on the way, you'll love it
Well happy with the x8
Should be good fun and we will defiantly have to meet up for a fly :)
That's nice:P
Done the one and only Mod to the airframe the servo push rods got a nice upgrade!
They look better!!
Quote from: shuntridge on August 13, 2012, 07:40:12 PM
They look better!!
yea I like the solid feel of them, get 10 rods in a pack for about 2.50 and the cleavis about the same I think.
rock solid :)
Cool any links ?
Quote from: Coyote on August 13, 2012, 07:54:38 PM
Cool any links ?
yup
http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RPF%2DRCA127 (http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RPF%2DRCA127)
and
http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G3548 (http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G3548)
and my prices were wrong the 3 quidish each :o
but you'll not have anything fail on you!
Nice one thanks Mark :)
Guys,
How much movement on the control surfaces ?
10/15mm or more??
Plus the antenna for the VTX how long do you have it or is around an inch outside the body okay??
Although I tend to fly through daft gaps so maybe i better not go to long...
10 - 15mm is enough not to promote a stall. I have more only because of FY31 dulling my sticks in stabilization. When stab is off 15mm is plenty
QuotePlus the antenna for the VTX how long do you have it or is around an inch outside the body okay??
Although I tend to fly through daft gaps so maybe i better not go to long...
how do mean?
On 5.8Ghz ( that I`m using ) the prop really kills the performance especially if its carbon. So if like me your mounting the vtx on the hatch then the higher the better. I just made a 30cm Skew to sort this ou.
Really if your on 5.8Ghz I would say the wing tips are going to be a less practical to wire but much better performing position. If you go for wing tip, a long antenna tail is not needed
Thanks for that
the VTX out comes up near the front left near the hatch so think I might need to get a longer skew made up to avoid motor noise/prop issues.
I dare not put anything on the wing tips, dodging trees anything on the wing tips might snag...
Quote from: Coyote on August 15, 2012, 12:23:13 AM
10 - 15mm is enough not to promote a stall. I have more only because of FY31 dulling my sticks in stabilization. When stab is off 15mm is plenty
ah thats worth knowing I'm hoping to get an FY31....
Shes nearly ready
Mark, I notice from the pics you have some high reflex on the inboard wing section.
I had a similar shape but was not sure what was best. On my first flight I needed to dial-in lots of down trim to achieve straight and level flight, not good. So after my first flight I hot twisted the wing root shape to follow the fuselage shape more closely. This reduced the reflex on the inboard wing section and therefore I could reduce the down trim on the elevons. This reduced drag considerably. It would also change the lift distribution along the wing to provide more lift in the centre and less at the tips - always good for stall characteristics. See how you go on the first flight.
its not fully together in the photos the near wing is not actually conected and its just balanced well not sat 100% level but will check it out.
been going over the check list and where to put what....
found one of my 4s packs that was in my Skywalker crash is bent and won't sit flush in the battery section :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
It was a bit of an "erm is that supposed to be like that" when I first got it.
Threw it up in the air and it did not need a bit of trim. Never had that before!!!
They do fly lovely!!! :D
It never flew broke motor mount!!
Chucker chucked but wasn't enough and in she went
Damage is pride and motor mount !
d'oh! hope you get her sorted ASAP
best bit is I know she takes a bump now :)
I've done it myself and seen loads of others stall it and so far not seen a single one take any damage from it. Built to take some punishment :)
Gone back to start and need a motor mount but its in for the re-fit :)
Right,
now how the smeg am I going to get these out...
Screwdriver? :D
Screwdriver said no!
:)
If a scewdriver wont do it no matter what then your looking at drilling the heads off the screws to release it
or dremel with cutting blade and just lob the top of, once you got the plate of then you should have enough thred to remove the rest with a pair of pliers etc. if need be.
Mark,
Check the size of the motor mount, I'm fairly sure this is the one?!?!
If it is I will post it out 1st class tomorrow for you.
Simon
(http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/shuntridge/CCFE9ED9-EB7A-41C1-A83F-E29B5F1AEC25-13888-000009211EABA8B0.jpg)
Any joy removing those screws fella?
J.
Quote from: MarkLincs on August 27, 2012, 02:57:41 PM
Right,
now how the smeg am I going to get these out...
If its superglue or epoxy, could try heating with a big soldering iron!
regards
Andy
If you have access to the back of the motor mount (the ply sheet shown in the photo) could you cut around it leaving a circular frame at the edges to attach a new piece of ply then motor mount?
J.