Skywalker 1900 EPO
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__57914__Skywalker_1900_FPV_Glider_EPO_1900mm_Kit_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=skywalker%201900 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__57914__Skywalker_1900_FPV_Glider_EPO_1900mm_Kit_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=skywalker%201900)
Turnigy Plush 60 amp esc
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=28405 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=28405)
Turnigy aerodrive sk3 1050kv motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=38044 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=38044)
Turnigy 4s 5000mah lipo
fpv gear
12v security cam 2000 camera
Cylcops storm OSD/Autopilot
800mw 1.3ghz ready made rc tx/rx or similar/cheaper, any suggestions?
myflydream antenna tracker at a later stage
Chainlink
Go Pro
Questions
is the above esc/motor combination suitable?
what servo's shall i buy?
what size prop for 4s?
do i need to buy any additional hardware items to strengthen airframe?
should i run fpv gear off the same battery?
what Servo for Pan?
do i need a voltage regulator or step-down converter?
average flight time for 5000mah 4s?
contingency lost plane tracking device?
Thanks in advance!
ESC and Motor combo will work, but on 4S I would personally get either of these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29478__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3542_800kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29478__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3542_800kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38045__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_840kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38045__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_840kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html)
Then I would use a 9x6 Graupner Aeronaut CAMCarbon Power-Prop
https://www.electricwingman.com/aeronaut-camcarbon-power-propellers (https://www.electricwingman.com/aeronaut-camcarbon-power-propellers)
Either way, a 9" prop is the biggest one you'll be able to fit on the walker without modifying the motor mount... but then that causes different issues such as thrust lines and such... easy enough to get a good setup for a 9" prop :)
Servos... I've used both of these in the past, never had a duff one and never had one fail on me, but I would favour the MG90S (2nd link)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38062__Turnigy_8482_TGY_50090M_Analog_Servo_MG_1_6kg_0_08sec_9g_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38062__Turnigy_8482_TGY_50090M_Analog_Servo_MG_1_6kg_0_08sec_9g_UK_Warehouse_.html)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29628__Turnigy_8482_MG90S_DS_MG_Servo_1_8kg_0_10sec_13_4g_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29628__Turnigy_8482_MG90S_DS_MG_Servo_1_8kg_0_10sec_13_4g_UK_Warehouse_.html)
I have that exact same Skywalker from hobbyking, there's no need to strengthen the airframe, in fact that one comes with the T-Tail struts to keep it from flopping around... I didn't use them and I've not had any issues. Wings don't need any special attention either, not like the older versions.
Running FPV gear off same LiPo or it's own LiPo is entirely your choice, you will get opinions from both sides... neither way is right or wrong... most of the time it depends on which OSD or AP you're using as to whether a 2nd LiPo is beneficial or not. So I won't give you my opinion on that right now.
Pan servo... get this GWS S125 1T 360 degree servo... http://www.goodluckbuy.com/gws-digital-servo-sail-winch-s125-1t-2bb-360-degree-7-6kg-106oz-in-1-28sec.html (http://www.goodluckbuy.com/gws-digital-servo-sail-winch-s125-1t-2bb-360-degree-7-6kg-106oz-in-1-28sec.html)
voltage reg/drop down... again, it depends on whether your OSD/AP does this for you, and ultimately what components you have on your aircraft and what voltages they require... you will most likely need a way to drop your 4S 16v(ish) down to 12v and 5v for various components. Some OSD/APs do this for you, some do not and you will be required to use voltage regulators and low noise BECs in the build
5000mah 4S, on the motor/prop combo I suggested above, I would expect in the region of 30-50 minute flight times on a skywalker 1900. it's all about HOW you fly, not just WHAT you fly lol.
Sometimes I hoon around doing low flying and formation stuff, of course this will yield shorter flight times... conversely I've been able to achieve 50mins plus from a 5000mah 4S by being very careful and flying just a few KMH above the stall speed of my walker.
The best contingency plan for a lost plane... in my opinion, is a DVR to record the live flight. This way you can watch back the footage of the crash and see some clues as to it's location... either GPS co-ords (depending on OSD) and/or being able to recognise features you could navigate to and correlate with a google earth view.
There are lost model alarms which simply beep really loud, and there are GPS/GSM (mobile phone network) trackers that can text you the GPS co-ords but this relies upon the model crashing in an area with cell phone reception... not always the case if you're flying somewhere safe like out in the countryside.
I was gonna comment but I think Chris nailed it on the head, karma on me Chris, was thinking 1900 sw a few weeks back and that list is pretty good, all be it though I'd go for the mfd ap as I have the tracker and thing the ap is the bizz,
wow great reply blue flyer thanks very much.
which 1.3ghx tx/rx combo?
http://www.banggood.com/FPV-1_2G-8CH-800mw-Wireless-AV-Transmitter-And-Receiver-p-73201.html (http://www.banggood.com/FPV-1_2G-8CH-800mw-Wireless-AV-Transmitter-And-Receiver-p-73201.html)
or
http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=913 (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=913)
and
http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_34_44&products_id=912 (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_34_44&products_id=912)
or other suggestions welcome?
reading your OP again, properly this time lol...
Cyclops Storm OSD... great choice, it will work very well in a skywalker.
This OSD has 2 ways of being powered up...
1. main lipo plugs into current sensor, place a "jumper" on 2 pins on the OSD unit and this allows the current sensor to pass through the LiPo's voltage to power the OSD.
2. remove the aforementioned "jumper" and provide 12v from another source to the power in pins on the OSD. This could be from the main flight LiPo or a separate dedicated OSD LiPo
YOU DO NOT WANT TO USE OPTION 1
Why?
because you're planning on using 4S LiPos... the Storm OSD needs 12v and will be ruined if you allow the 16v from the 4S LiPo to pass through the current sensor into the OSD.
This means you're left with option 2. Provide 12v to the power in pins on the OSD.
I would suggest doing this in 1 of the 2 following methods
1. have a separate 3S LiPo to provide power to the OSD... this means you will need to remember to charge up not only your flight batteries but also a stock of smaller (sub 1000mah, 500mah will be fine for the flight times you will get) 3S LiPos for your OSD.
2. tap off the main LiPo power and run it through a voltage regulator to drop it down to 12v.
Either way, you're in luck.... the Storm OSD also acts as a power distribution board for your FPV equipment... the 12v you supply the Storm OSD (via one of the methods above) is then fed to the FPV camera and the VTX... both of which you've stated operate on 12v. This means no other voltage regs or drop downs required to power the cam or VTX.
When I had a Storm OSD I used the dedicated 3S LiPo method.
Quote from: cortex on January 21, 2016, 09:52:20 PM
wow great reply blue flyer thanks very much.
which 1.3ghx tx/rx combo?
http://www.banggood.com/FPV-1_2G-8CH-800mw-Wireless-AV-Transmitter-And-Receiver-p-73201.html (http://www.banggood.com/FPV-1_2G-8CH-800mw-Wireless-AV-Transmitter-And-Receiver-p-73201.html)
or
http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=913 (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=913)
and
http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_34_44&products_id=912 (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_34_44&products_id=912)
or other suggestions welcome?
No problem mate... always a pleasure... I love my skywalker, I've built 3 in my time in FPV and each one benefits from lessons learnt in the previous incarnation... I think it's important that we share our experiences as to minimise any mistakes or potential failures for other people :)
Buy the banggood package, purely for the VTX.... it's cheaper than JUST the VTX from RMRC and it's the same unit (I know, I've got both ;) )
put the VRX from that package to one side and buy the VRX from readymadeRC... it's worth the money.
the VRX may look the same, but it has been modded by RMRC and is far superior internally with a better receiver module and SAW filter.
You "could" mess around with changing SAW filters in the VRX from the banggood package, but you'd be safer buying the VRX from RMRC.
Quote from: bignose13 on January 21, 2016, 09:46:31 PM
I was gonna comment but I think Chris nailed it on the head, karma on me Chris, was thinking 1900 sw a few weeks back and that list is pretty good, all be it though I'd go for the mfd ap as I have the tracker and thing the ap is the bizz,
Yeah, not played with a MFD AP, so not sure what it does with it's power management... you probably know more about that than me...
I have a Vector in my current skywalker and it's PSU contains a few regulators and filters, there are 2 x 12v outputs and 1 x 5v output and you can chose which voltage to power your cam/vtx by simply plugging in the right JST connector. It also accepts up to 6S LiPos (25.2v) and safely drops the voltage to power the OSD. I don't need to use a 2nd Battery when using a Vector, although I could if I wanted to.
Quote from: BlueFlyer on January 21, 2016, 09:38:28 PM
ESC and Motor combo will work, but on 4S I would personally get either of these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29478__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3542_800kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29478__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3542_800kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38045__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_840kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38045__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_840kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html)
would lower kv mean less power?
Quote from: cortex on January 21, 2016, 10:05:29 PM
would lower kv mean less power?
No mate, power isn't all about the KV... the KV is just the amount of revolutions, per second, per volt applied to the motor
how the motor is constructed internally will determine how powerful it is... it may be spinning "slower" but it will spin with more force...
the motor you initially suggested only has a max power of 505 watts, the 800kv one I linked to is more powerful at 625 watts and the 840kv one is even more powerful at 750 watts.
Quote from: BlueFlyer on January 21, 2016, 10:11:48 PM
No mate, power isn't all about the KV... the KV is just the amount of revolutions, per second, per volt applied to the motor
how the motor is constructed internally will determine how powerful it is... it may be spinning "slower" but it will spin with more force...
the motor you initially suggested only has a max power of 505 watts, the 800kv one I linked to is more powerful at 625 watts and the 840kv one is even more powerful at 750 watts.
i will go for the most powerful one lol
Quote from: cortex on January 21, 2016, 10:13:33 PM
i will go for the most powerful one lol
hehe, why not :)
take a look at this motor... it's a 2200kv motor... but it's tiny. it spins fast but with very little power (180 watts), albeit plenty of power for what it's designed for, pushing a AXN floater jet/cloud sky through the air :)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28422__Floater_Jet_Replacement_Motor_AXN_2208_2150_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28422__Floater_Jet_Replacement_Motor_AXN_2208_2150_UK_Warehouse_.html)
ESC OK?
I'm reading with interest as I am fitting out a SW 1900 with similar gear.
Blue - may I ask what motor / KV you would recommend for 3S 5000 LiPo?
I was looking at 3548-1050kV or 3542-1185kV...
I would value you opinion dude!
:)
Step down converter recomendation?
Quote from: cortex on January 21, 2016, 10:21:59 PM
ESC OK?
ESC is spot on, get yourself one of these programming cards too... many people don't program their ESCs which is a shame, there are some settings you need to configure to get the most out of it
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29330__TURNIGY_BESC_Programming_Card_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29330__TURNIGY_BESC_Programming_Card_UK_Warehouse_.html)
In particular, the battery type, the voltage cut off type, the voltage cut off threshold and the brake
The ESC will shut down when the input voltage drops to a certain level in order to protect the battery from overdischarging. however, it's widely accepted that it's preferable to ruin a battery past it's safe voltage level than it is to completely ruin an entire airframe that crashed because the ESC shut off.
By telling the ESC that the LiPo is actually a Ni-xx type battery it will continue operating down to a lower voltage than it would if it was set to Li-xx
You can then tell the ESC to use low/med/high voltage cutoff threshold... of course, you set it to low
Then you tell the ESC whether you want the cut off to be slow and gradual or fast and immediate when it detects that voltage threshold.... here you would tell it to cut slowly in order to get as much prop spinning time as possible.
finally you tell the ESC to apply the brake when you're not giving it throttle... this way the prop does not "free-wheel" when you're trying to glide off the throttle. believe it or not, allowing it to spin freely in the moving air when gliding actually increases drag compared to having the prop fixed in the airflow.
Quote from: Dillwhacker on January 21, 2016, 10:29:43 PM
I'm reading with interest as I am fitting out a SW 1900 with similar gear.
Blue - may I ask what motor / KV you would recommend for 3S 5000 LiPo?
I was looking at 3548-1050kV or 3542-1185kV...
I would value you opinion dude!
:)
3S on a skywalker is certainly do-able, it won't be as powerful or economical as a 4S setup but you will still have a great flying machine on your hands.
Of those two I would use this on 3S LiPo with the same prop I recommended above
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80693__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_1050kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=3548%2010 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80693__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_1050kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=3548%2010)
Quote from: cortex on January 21, 2016, 10:32:27 PM
Step down converter recomendation?
Although it's designed for multirotors, this is a good regulator and power distribution board and would be ideal for a multi-voltage airframe such as a skywalker running on 4S.
http://www.banggood.com/Matek-Mini-Power-Hub-Power-Distribution-Board-With-BEC-5V-And-12V-For-FPV-Multicopter-p-1005549.html (http://www.banggood.com/Matek-Mini-Power-Hub-Power-Distribution-Board-With-BEC-5V-And-12V-For-FPV-Multicopter-p-1005549.html)
There are many different versions of this power hub, by many manufacturers... maybe someone on here can suggest one... I personally use a single LiPo setup on my vector now, and used a 2 lipo setup on my Storm OSD builds to get away from having to use regulators.
I prefer the climb power of a 4s setup myself, my Skywalker feels quite underpowered when I run it with a 3s battery and that's with twice the capacity 4s (= weight) than the 3s weight (10000mAh 4s vs 5000mAh 3s).
I've got a 1200kv motor on a 9x6 prop... it's like a rat up a drainpipe :D
Quote from: Steve W on January 21, 2016, 10:51:52 PM
I've got a 1200kv motor on a 9x6 prop... it's like a rat up a drainpipe :D
And you'd know! ;) :sparta:
Cheers Blue, cheers guys :)
Jees, can't wait to fly this thing after 2.4G / 5.8G...
;D
Quote from: BlueFlyer on January 21, 2016, 10:46:27 PM
3S on a skywalker is certainly do-able, it won't be as powerful or economical as a 4S setup but you will still have a great flying machine on your hands.
Of those two I would use this on 3S LiPo with the same prop I recommended above
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80693__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_1050kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=3548%2010 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80693__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_1050kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=3548%2010)
any pics of your skywalker?
Although it's designed for multirotors, this is a good regulator and power distribution board and would be ideal for a multi-voltage airframe such as a skywalker running on 4S.
http://www.banggood.com/Matek-Mini-Power-Hub-Power-Distribution-Board-With-BEC-5V-And-12V-For-FPV-Multicopter-p-1005549.html (http://www.banggood.com/Matek-Mini-Power-Hub-Power-Distribution-Board-With-BEC-5V-And-12V-For-FPV-Multicopter-p-1005549.html)
There are many different versions of this power hub, by many manufacturers... maybe someone on here can suggest one... I personally use a single LiPo setup on my vector now, and used a 2 lipo setup on my Storm OSD builds to get away from having to use regulators.
stock hardware any good?
Quote from: Steve W on January 21, 2016, 10:51:52 PM
I prefer the climb power of a 4s setup myself, my Skywalker feels quite underpowered when I run it with a 3s battery and that's with twice the capacity 4s (= weight) than the 3s weight (10000mAh 4s vs 5000mAh 3s).
I've got a 1200kv motor on a 9x6 prop... it's like a rat up a drainpipe :D
Cheers Steve, I'll work my way up to a drainpipe rat - I have a rat ATM - a Laser Arrow with an FPV setup loosely connected to both wings - that's as much excitement as I can handle just now.
Just want long slow and smooth from the SW1900...
Till I've had 3 flights..
:P
http://www.fpvhub.com/index.php/topic,45749.0.html (http://www.fpvhub.com/index.php/topic,45749.0.html)
I use the control horns for the surfaces, but I always use my own pushrods and clevises. I use 2mm threaded pushrods with M2 clevises on the thread and a Z bend on the other end. I have the clevis on the horn at the control surface, then put the Z bend into the servo horn
http://www.gliders.uk.com/8-Push-Rod-M2-Threaded-Pk10/productinfo/RPF-RCA127/ (http://www.gliders.uk.com/8-Push-Rod-M2-Threaded-Pk10/productinfo/RPF-RCA127/)
http://www.gliders.uk.com/Clevis-metal-M2-Pk-10/productinfo/G3548/ (http://www.gliders.uk.com/Clevis-metal-M2-Pk-10/productinfo/G3548/)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34396__Z_Bend_Pliers_Heavy_Duty_90_degree_up_to_1_16_UK_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34396__Z_Bend_Pliers_Heavy_Duty_90_degree_up_to_1_16_UK_Warehouse_.html)
out of stock... but in stock here, albeit more expensive
https://buy.4props.com/z-bend-pliers.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAoIK1BRCRiMqphvnlwlwSJAAOebPMWrJopoLtRR4jaZfJFwDxO2Y9k40AXahGNMODWmIVXhoCiw3w_wcB (https://buy.4props.com/z-bend-pliers.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAoIK1BRCRiMqphvnlwlwSJAAOebPMWrJopoLtRR4jaZfJFwDxO2Y9k40AXahGNMODWmIVXhoCiw3w_wcB)
anyone know where i can get ply or 3d printed fpv gear/ camera mount for the sw ?
I made my own
Quote from: Steve W on January 22, 2016, 11:26:30 AM
I made my own
i plan on mounting an fpv camera and a go pro.
have you got a pic of yours?
Not to hand. My FPV camera is fixed to the plane on a pan servo just behind the canopy (on top). My "canopy" is simply a nicely cut piece of ply with a GoPro mount glued to it so that I can attach a case GoPro to it.
I can swap canopies out - I have one for my GoPro, my Mobius and one with a gopro gimbal attached to the front too. Depending on my mood :)
Hi Cortex
You can get a nice and cheap plywood one from HK international. Shipping might take a while though.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__72973__Skywalker_1680_1720mm_Plywood_FPV_Camera_Mount_Canopy.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__72973__Skywalker_1680_1720mm_Plywood_FPV_Camera_Mount_Canopy.html)
It fits perfectly the SW1900 - I've got one!
Cheers
Charles
wheres the best place to put esc?
depends on what other kit you have and where you have it.
the top bay just under the wings is where the designers assumed one would put the ESC, with the power and signal wires going down into the main body of the fuselage, and the 3 motor wires going through the hole at the rear of that bay, to the motor.
However, I have my motor wires going down into the lower hole and the ESC is inside the main body, simply because I prefer to have my autopilot/osd in the top bay for ease of access.
Great cheers!
Also am I ok to buy a standard ebay sma extension cable to extend my chainlink
Antenna? I assume it won't dramatically reduce performance?
Quote from: cortex on January 21, 2016, 09:12:44 PM
Skywalker 1900 EPO
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__57914__Skywalker_1900_FPV_Glider_EPO_1900mm_Kit_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=skywalker%201900 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__57914__Skywalker_1900_FPV_Glider_EPO_1900mm_Kit_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=skywalker%201900)
Turnigy Plush 60 amp esc
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=28405 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=28405)
Turnigy aerodrive sk3 1050kv motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=38044 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=38044)
Turnigy 4s 5000mah lipo
Cylcops storm OSD/Autopilot
800mw 1.3ghz ready made rc tx/rx or similar/cheaper, any suggestions?
myflydream antenna tracker at a later stage
Chainlink
Go Pro
I know i'm late in contributing to this thread, but your spec above is basically my Skywalker. Mine has exactly the same motor, ESC, battery and Autopilot (actually my AP is the Cyclops Tornado, almost identical).
I'm happy with its performance, but if you want to check it out for yourself take a look at a couple of my youtube vids:
www.youtube.com/user/1AdamG (http://www.youtube.com/user/1AdamG)
Good luck with the build :)
Cheers Adam!
Does it have plenty of power on take offs?
Quote from: cortex on January 28, 2016, 12:09:48 PM
Cheers Adam!
Does it have plenty of power on take offs?
Carrying 10,000 of 4s and weighing around 2.8kg... it rockets straight up on 75% throttle.
I used to literally just let it fall out my hand without throwing it, but then it came close to the floor :P so now i give it a throw.
Take a look at this and you'll see:
https://youtu.be/Wyky6my9yFY?t=3m6s
Heres how i got on
i had a spare zmr250 carbon plate laying around, which fit straight inside for a multi tiered system and pre drilled holes for my pdb.
(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y435/cortexdnb1/IMG_3551_zpsmbhplqja.jpg)
i tried to keep things as neat as possible, but once you start patching all the wires it always ends up like a rats nest!
(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y435/cortexdnb1/IMG_3554_zpskcsbtoos.jpg)
I really was not impressed with the hardware supplied so i used some high density horns and m2 clevis from one of my old ic models.
The horizontal stabilizer needed reinforcing with a bit of carbon fibre strip to achieve a straighter throw.
(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y435/cortexdnb1/IMG_3558_zpsjddvfhbu.jpg)
I made a camera mount from an old brushed go pro drone gimbal
(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y435/cortexdnb1/IMG_3567_zpswv10a3nm.jpg)
virtually finished, can't wait to maiden!
(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y435/cortexdnb1/WD_E890_zps2rwkcfrd.jpg)
That rats nest looks exactly like mine except I have a control board for flashing LEDs and all of the associated wires for 8 (!) individual lights all over the place too :laugh:
It's good that it isn't visible from outside the aircraft :D
whats going to be the optimum vtx frequency to avoid clash with chain link uhf?
I'm going to be doing an attenuated range check tomoz
Hi Cortex
Can you get the CG balanced with your setup? I found that with mine that I had to clear up most of the internal space to balance with either the 5A 4S. With 10A 4S the pack sits mostly under the wing.
Cheers
Quote from: FlyingRock on January 31, 2016, 01:32:25 AM
Hi Cortex
Can you get the CG balanced with your setup? I found that with mine that I had to clear up most of the internal space to balance with either the 5A 4S. With 10A 4S the pack sits mostly under the wing.
Cheers
wheres your cofg? i been doing mine to aileron servo wire
Quote from: cortex on January 30, 2016, 11:49:40 PM
whats going to be the optimum vtx frequency to avoid clash with chain link uhf?
I'm going to be doing an attenuated range check tomoz
I don't think it's going to matter much. You have an overpowered transmitter sat right next to your UHF receiver antenna. Your range is going to be severely reduced.
The Vtx is not going to be bothered by the GoPro etc up front so it could have been mounted there to get more range back, and use a smaller Vtx.
Quote from: Coyote on February 01, 2016, 01:27:34 PM
I don't think it's going to matter much. You have an overpowered transmitter sat right next to your UHF receiver antenna. Your range is going to be severely reduced.
The Vtx is not going to be bothered by the GoPro etc up front so it could have been mounted there to get more range back, and use a smaller Vtx.
sjall i test it first or are you 100% certain its going to affect uhf range?
By all means try the range check, but 800mW of 1.2GHz within cm of a UHF receiver antenna is going to drastically reduce your range.
Quote from: Coyote on February 01, 2016, 01:44:51 PM
By all means try the range check, but 800mW of 1.2GHz within cm of a UHF receiver antenna is going to drastically reduce your range.
This is why I suggested having the uhf and vtx out on opposite wings.
Really not sure why people are so scared to dig out foam from their wings
Quote from: Coyote on February 01, 2016, 01:44:51 PM
By all means try the range check, but 800mW of 1.2GHz within cm of a UHF receiver antenna is going to drastically reduce your range.
i put it there for cof g reasons, and then later discovered about them interfering with each other. oooops!
would it make any difference if i pig tailed the vtx antenna away from uhf rx?
or use a filter?
A filter will only buy you a bit of range back. I am confuse a bit on the CG, that cased Vtx is fairly heavy compared to say a 600mW Immersion Vtx which I had mounted at the same place and the CG was fine still so you should be able to move it, especially uncased by compensating with the lipo.
Running an extension is an option but you will loose some gain.
Quote from: Coyote on February 01, 2016, 02:15:33 PM
A filter will only buy you a bit of range back. I am confuse a bit on the CG, that cased Vtx is fairly heavy compared to say a 600mW Immersion Vtx which I had mounted at the same place and the CG was fine still so you should be able to move it, especially uncased by compensating with the lipo.
Running an extension is an option but you will loose some gain.
whats going to be the best option in your opinion?
Move the Vtx to either the top of the canopy ( If you're not thrilled at cutting your wing ) or the wing itself ( But not in its huge case though. )
Up front will at least get some space between your UHF antenna and the Vtx, the Gopro etc won't bother the Vtx being there.
Quote from: Coyote on February 01, 2016, 02:52:15 PM
Move the Vtx to either the top of the canopy ( If you're not thrilled at cutting your wing ) or the wing itself ( But not in its huge case though. )
Up front will at least get some space between your UHF antenna and the Vtx, the Gopro etc won't bother the Vtx being there.
can the vtx interfere with my cylops storm gps?
It can do, although personally I have had it happen only once with a Naza GPS, other times it's not bothered the GPS.
I would move the GPS sensor out to the tail or to where the vtx is right now.
cheers for your help ian, always appreciated!
i will move stuff about tonight hopefully
Not saying its the best way, but mine has always worked well like this.
(http://s2.postimg.org/6rsq4ffqt/IMG_0921.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6rsq4ffqt/)
That's how I meant :)
Much better when you can visualize it :)
I found the sw1900 a bit of a "boat" compared to the 168. Mine was the under cambered wing. Not to bad in floaty mode, calm day, but tended to ballon in the turn and like a lot of gliders with that wing responded better in the turn if rudder was used before aileron. Got knocked about in turbulent weather. In a strong head wind I could almost fly with full down in to keep from climbing.
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(http://s11.postimg.org/xnfgszan3/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xnfgszan3/)
Is this ok?
It will get very warm buried in the foam like that
Quote from: BlueFlyer on February 01, 2016, 10:03:06 PM
It will get very warm buried in the foam like that
Even with an inline switch and only switch on outside?
The position is good, but you need cooling to it, buried in the foam will not let the heat escape. Nearly there though :)
I've glued mine there, but with a bit more poking out, and attached a half-inch-square heatsink with thermal tape. Doesn't get too hot even in still air.
like this maybe?
(http://s10.postimg.org/mme4en8d1/IMG_3657.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/mme4en8d1/)
That would be ideal
That's fine but you could fit it like you had before but as Dillwhacker did with half of it at least poking out so the air hits it.
You could, it's not going to get that hot it will melt it
Here's mine...
(http://s14.postimg.org/uilp2i7wd/010220163754.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/uilp2i7wd/)
HTH
Trev
Quote from: Dillwhacker on February 01, 2016, 11:05:59 PM
Here's mine...
(http://s14.postimg.org/uilp2i7wd/010220163754.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/uilp2i7wd/)
HTH
Trev
(http://s12.postimg.org/t557wq5yx/IMG_3659.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/t557wq5yx/)
heres mine half way out as suggested
Probably a stupid question but is it ok to cut my gps wire and extend it using some servo wire?
I'm going to put it at the back near rudder where tx was
yup, thats fine.
Gps now locks in much quicker away from vtx!
We put the gps on top off the tail plane, the vtx at the front of the boom, the AP on the cog inside and the ESC behind it and the radio Rx in the top box under the wing. With the Futaba 2.4 r700sb Rx, 600mw 5.8 vtx and bignoses 4 lobes we can get a theoretical 3k as long as the model had a clear path. Eg no obstructions but for those interested the geofence on the fy41 is set much lower than that.
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I have my GPS sensor on the boom, the 2.4GHz FrSky antennas poking out of the side of the fuselage at a 90 degree V and my 5.8GHz 250mw VTX out on the wing near the wing tip :)
Bignose skew on the goggles, and fatshark spironet skew on the wing of the plane (for the protective dome :) )
No video breakup skew to skew to 1.2km so far, no telemetry beeping on the FrSky and no GPS loss.
Quote from: Steve W on February 03, 2016, 10:14:27 AM
No video breakup skew to skew to 1.2km so far
Thats good to know. I just set my dad up on a mini skywalker with a 250mw 5.8 and was wondering what kind of range he'd get on skews.
I tried to maiden today, it keeps on rolling to the left dramatically on take off, even with opposing trim.
has anyone else had this issue?
:(
Hows the balance of the aircraft? I assume you're not throwing it with a crosswind? how is it once up in the air cruising?
Quote from: AdamG on February 13, 2016, 12:32:07 PM
Hows the balance of the aircraft? I assume you're not throwing it with a crosswind? how is it once up in the air cruising?
i couldn't get it to take off
Thats odd. I take it everything looks straight and there is no irregular balance? i.e. you didn't put all the heavy gear on the left? :P
Pics of the finished plane might help
If the rudder and the ailerons are both level it will only really be the balance.
Not wishing to do grandmother & eggs thing but...
Are the wings definitely joined flat - perfectly level at the root?
Control surfaces definitely moving the correct way with the sticks? (I have crashed with reversed ailerons before)...
If Autopilot is operating, is it definitely correcting in the correct direction?
Reversed ailerons
Reversed autopilot
Wings warped (not very likely)
Elephant sitting on left wing (hopefully you'd notice this)
We're talking about a Skywalker here, I feel like if one isn't flying straight it should be super obvious why (?)
I hope you were flying in fully manual mode
I agree.
Also - with the Skywalker if your rudder is even SLIGHTLY out, you'll get the aircraft rolling as if you were using the ailerons. Make sure all of your flight control surfaces are neutral.
I'm slightly suspicious that it could have been a loose decal on left wing
I was flying fully manual.
Wings were straight
On second attempt I trimmed ailerons to the right still did the same.
I have put a ten gram tyre weight on right wing tip to help with lateral balance.
The only thing that is offset to left side in fuzz is the current sensor. So should be balanced
if this is happening with your stabilisation ON, turn it off. You shouldn't really launch for the maiden it with stability on anyway as (if working properly) it will mask any physical corrections you may need to make to your surfaces.
if it's still rolling left with lots of opposite trim, you may need to check your tx that ailerons are actually moving the right way when you move the stick left/right
if you're using an AP, make sure the surfaces move correctly in stabilisation mode. When you tip the left wing down you want the autopilot to move the left aileron down, right wing down, right aileron down. If this is not happening, then your AP rolling the plane, regardless of how much trim you put in.
Quote from: BlueFlyer on February 13, 2016, 08:31:57 PM
if this is happening with your stabilisation ON, turn it off. You shouldn't really launch for the maiden it with stability on anyway as (if working properly) it will mask any physical corrections you may need to make to your surfaces.
if it's still rolling left with lots of opposite trim, you may need to check your tx that ailerons are actually moving the right way when you move the stick left/right
if you're using an AP, make sure the surfaces move correctly in stabilisation mode. When you tip the left wing down you want the autopilot to move the left aileron down, right wing down, right aileron down. If this is not happening, then your AP rolling the plane, regardless of how much trim you put in.
The autopilot is completely disengaged on take off pal and control surfaces are moving the right way
So with it all ready to fly, how does it balance? There shouldn't be any need for weight in the wing (unless you've put some gear in the left wing thats weighing it down?)
Quote from: AdamG on February 13, 2016, 09:18:03 PM
So with it all ready to fly, how does it balance? There shouldn't be any need for weight in the wing (unless you've put some gear in the left wing thats weighing it down?)
My thoughts exactly. I just put wing halfs together and put my finger in the centre. The left wing completely out weighs the right.
Roughly same amount if tape on both sides, hardware is in exactly same place.
I don't think a few grams of un-balance between the wings would be enough to cause a yaw / roll that couldn't be corrected with ailerons on a plane this size TBH.
But a flapping loose decal can cause a lot of drag, and drag = yaw = roll if you have dihedral like this does.
Strange - I would still expect it to be flyable though...
Quote from: Dillwhacker on February 13, 2016, 10:56:23 PM
I don't think a few grams of un-balance between the wings would be enough to cause a yaw / roll that couldn't be corrected with ailerons on a plane this size TBH.
But a flapping loose decal can cause a lot of drag, and drag = yaw = roll if you have dihedral like this does.
Strange - I would still expect it to be flyable though...
In order for wings to balance I have to put ten grams on right wing tip.
Even with wings in fuzz it wants to bank left, I'm pretty certain it's a lateral balance issue
http://youtu.be/c-5HFYgO0s8 (http://youtu.be/c-5HFYgO0s8)
Ten grams is tiny - less than half an ounce.
That should easily be counteracted by a touch of right aileron on a 2kg plane.
I have flown small (Teksumo, Easystar) planes with a HK Wingcam randomly slapped on one wing with velcro, and they only needed a touch of opposite aileron to correct for it.
Just my 2p worth.
Quote from: Dillwhacker on February 13, 2016, 10:56:23 PM
I don't think a few grams of un-balance between the wings would be enough to cause a yaw / roll that couldn't be corrected with ailerons on a plane this size TBH.
But a flapping loose decal can cause a lot of drag, and drag = yaw = roll if you have dihedral like this does.
Strange - I would still expect it to be flyable though...
+10 for that, i have had exactly that with a loose decal on a SW 1900. I thought I had a servo failure, landed, checked and found nothing, took off, same thing. Then we spotted the front of the decal lifting up. That's what it was.
The 1900 wing has super lift as it is under cambered, so the lifting decal on one wing acted like a spoiler
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