Seeing this seems to have a few followers an Ender 3 thread seems appropriate so everyone can collate all the tips and tricks in one place.
UK Gearbest Creality Ender 3 (https://uk.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845899.html?wid=1433363¤cy=GBP&vip=14752948&gclid=CjwKCAiAx4fhBRB6EiwA3cV4Kouz7JvCr6-fjnjDLhmEogbDFLzz43ntORFultbeUzQw6bD3GoPKXRoCKm8QAvD_BwE)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61RC9lxOIYL._SX342_.jpg)
Press skip to go to the next relevant video :
[yt_search]Creality Ender 3[/yt_search]
I had been trying to find out what was new with the Pro.
I'm really not sure abut the Ender 3 at all now
Aitch
Lots of thinking
Bit the bullet and ordered an ander 3 with upgrade extruder, glass bed, and 1 each pla and abs.
I am treating this as a learning tool and will upgrade to quality machine at some point
Aitch
I received an ender 3 for christmas. Make sure the horizontal rail the hot end runs on is level with the bed!!! Follow the long setup document from the FaceBook group as it's quite good. Read it a couple of times before you start. One thing that is missing is the doc says to bolt the uprights on to the base frame so you can slightly twist them so you can align things. But it doesn't tell you to tighten them at the end!!! So remember to tighten them :)
Also tension the belt you fit so its same tightness as one already fitted.
I used the creality flexible bed that the printer came with and it's great, things (PLA) stick very well. I also have the creality glass bed but I have not had much success with that. I can't get things to stick very well so part way through the print lifts and gets all caught up. I think I need to clean it or use some glue/hairspray but back to flexi bed and it's great.
I updated the FW wisingan Adruino so thermal runaway if monitored, that all went well. I have also used an old Raspberry Pi 2B+ running Octoprint with a v2 camera so I can watch how things are progressing from downstairs.
This is also useful as you can slice your prints on Cura 3.6.0 then save gcode and upload via the Octoprint web interface. So no messing about with micro sd cards. You will need to set bed dimensions on Octoprint.
So far I am very pleased with it. I do still need to calibrate it dimensionally but it's fairly close.
Thanks Ched. I remember the importance of user accuracy in the physical build and set up from my reprap mendal what seems like a lifetime ago. In the end it was price that led me to this decision. Fully aware that I would have to work harder for better results.
Would love to know more details about the adruino update and even more about the rasberrypie/octoprint thing...
........ I'll def look for the Facebook group.
Thanks Coyote. It was his review of the Ender pro that nearly put me off. And now I am happier with my purchase even before receiving it.
Aitch
Quote from: Aitch1969 on January 06, 2019, 08:09:51 AM
Would love to know more details about the adruino update and even more about the rasberrypie/octoprint thing...
........ I'll def look for the Facebook group.
Aitch
I believe the fw that comes with the printer doesn't have any thermal runaway protection. The problem is there is no boot loader. So you have to use and Arduino UNO R3 to install a bootloader then you can update the FW (TH3D Unified Marlin firmware) via the usb cable.
Good detailed vid here : https://youtu.be/fIl5X2ffdyo (https://youtu.be/fIl5X2ffdyo).
The Rpi and Octoprint is handy. I had an old Rpi 2B and I bought the rpi V2 camera. I think I sed this guide https://octoprint.org/download/ (https://octoprint.org/download/) It is good to be able to see how the print is getting on and upload gcode from pc to octopi via network (I used cat5 cable from rpi to network as switch way 3 ft away).
Highly recommend running Octopi! I run mine on a 3B+ which has WiFi on board. I can keep an eye on the prints from wherever, particularly useful with the boat my son has decided to print that has several 12 hour pieces.
Definitely the way I would like to go but with having to buy a rasperypie and the other card to flash the bootloader and a camera and maybe a WiFi card the cost is for now prohibitive.
But I will get there
Aitch
Would a pi zero do it? They seem to be the most affordable??
Aitch
Quote from: ched on January 05, 2019, 02:19:12 PM
I received an ender 3 for christmas. Make sure the horizontal rail the hot end runs on is level with the bed!!! Follow the long setup document from the FaceBook group as it's quite good. Read it a couple of times before you start. One thing that is missing is the doc says to bolt the uprights on to the base frame so you can slightly twist them so you can align things. But it doesn't tell you to tighten them at the end!!! So remember to tighten them :)
Also tension the belt you fit so its same tightness as one already fitted.
I used the creality flexible bed that the printer came with and it's great, things (PLA) stick very well. I also have the creality glass bed but I have not had much success with that. I can't get things to stick very well so part way through the print lifts and gets all caught up. I think I need to clean it or use some glue/hairspray but back to flexi bed and it's great.
I updated the FW wisingan Adruino so thermal runaway if monitored, that all went well. I have also used an old Raspberry Pi 2B+ running Octoprint with a v2 camera so I can watch how things are progressing from downstairs.
This is also useful as you can slice your prints on Cura 3.6.0 then save gcode and upload via the Octoprint web interface. So no messing about with micro sd cards. You will need to set bed dimensions on Octoprint.
So far I am very pleased with it. I do still need to calibrate it dimensionally but it's fairly close.
chef a tip for the creakily glass bed. Wash in dish soap and thoroughly rinse, don't touch the surface with bare fingers, install with the shiny side up, the rough side is no good at all, keep dust off with microfibre cloth. I run mine at 90 for PETG and 75 for pla and honestly never have any issues with adherence. I let the bed cool down and the print just pops off. Photo is of my latest and biggest print to date. 17 hours, PETG, no supports. It's an air brick to extractor vent adaptor.
Cheers for the advice BigT. I will give the smooth glass a wash and try it.
That is a nice print. I assume you couldn't just buy one or was it just the challenge?
That's reet cool big t love to see real stuff. And thanks for the glass advice.
Aitch
so good... i bought 2 :D
Do you know what it is yet
(https://i.postimg.cc/jw4fkp2h/IMG-20190111-182108.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jw4fkp2h)
Aitch
Quote from: Coyote on January 11, 2019, 03:05:31 PM
Just ran to check I def have soldered connectors it's 30 mins into a print with pla bed temp 50 degrees and the connector is cold to the touch
Aitch
Good good, after my printer set itself on fire the other week ( not an Ender ) I would always recommend having a quick look as its an easy mod to rectify.
How the hell can they make ship and sell these for £25 its free king amazing.
Here's dojo
(https://i.postimg.cc/TLS2SsTs/IMG-20190112-062745.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLS2SsTs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vgDH0yw9/IMG-20190112-062824.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vgDH0yw9)
£25???? Where did you get an ender3 for £25?
Dog looks good, did you have to make any adjustments and what bed did you use, any hairspray etc?
Ooops £125.00
Printed on the stock bed the thin metal one. Had to straighten the the frame legs as it was about 5mm out of square. The z axis microswitch came with a location tab that I had to cut off to lower the switch. The z axis jams so badly I had to loosen the top brass nut screws and the screws that hold the stepper motor right off. I'll be printing the z stepper spacer after I've done a 3d benchie in abs.
Otherwise exactly as it came out the box assembled bed levelled and print... 5 bloody hour though lol
I followed this video exactly.
https://youtu.be/N9aWBjbj3Ag
Aitch
Let the printing commence!
I've been working on a camera bay for my s800 this week and am currently printing a fold-flat adjustable phone stand for a trip away next week.
I think the z-axis issue must be hit-or-miss, mine was fine. I printed off the screw rod top support with a bearing anyhow.
Quote from: ched on January 10, 2019, 04:00:30 PM
Cheers for the advice BigT. I will give the smooth glass a wash and try it.
That is a nice print. I assume you couldn't just buy one or was it just the challenge?
Thanks for praise, bit of both really, couldn't find the correct converter on line and I needed the design practice on F360. and I had the spool of PETG open and it needed using up. I also printed a dispensing box for latex gloves as the cardboard one always fails and you end up with gloves all over the van.
Quote from: Aitch1969 on January 11, 2019, 07:37:28 PM
Just ran to check I def have soldered connectors it's 30 mins into a print with pla bed temp 50 degrees and the connector is cold to the touch
Aitch
Mine melted when running the bed at 80 deg. I just rewirec the power directly to the bed with proper silicone wire. I also updated Marlin to the latest firmware that has temp runaway protection.
Test print.
3d benchy in abs
Used cura. Selected cr10 changed name to ender 3. Set bed Dimensions 220,220,250. Set bed temp to 110c layer height to 0.15 cooling fan off...
Bed adhesion is a fail but I let it continue.
Print quality.. Good I recon!?
Dropped it hense no chimney.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cvd815tj/IMG-20190113-121952.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvd815tj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bZLSZHQv/IMG-20190113-122015.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZLSZHQv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SJ6MhpRC/IMG-20190113-122022.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJ6MhpRC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dLPyp0sJ/IMG-20190113-122029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLPyp0sJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/grrsmrbR/IMG-20190113-122035.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/grrsmrbR)
Tried again on glass with hairspray.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3kBCTv8Z/IMG-20190113-174815.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kBCTv8Z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7bFNM4tS/IMG-20190113-174820.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bFNM4tS)
Better adhesion just with very minor lifting. It's only about 14 or 15 degrees in the dining room though. Probably an enclosure would help...
Aitch
Well think the lifting problem is solved
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zRfjyvz/15474857573711371570021589040376.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zRfjyvz)
Plain side of the glass bed with hairspray at 110c nossle 235c
Layers 0.15mm first layer 0.25mm
Levelled bed with slip of paper as normal then wound it up 1/5th of a turn
And then don't try this at home.
(https://i.postimg.cc/CzmD8GWn/IMG-20190114-170006.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzmD8GWn)
Printed under a tent (bin liner)
Aitch :o
Like the bin bag, tho make sure it's tied down as the warm so could see it take off! I happened to have a roll of foil backed bubble wrap I 'arrange' around mine. I keep it in the garage which is unheated so use it for PLA too. Eventually we l plan to make a cupboard for it.
I like the idea of using an Ikea table to make a nice enclosure, loads of instructions out there and it's detailed on the prusa site here:
https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/ (https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/)
Been thinking about an enclosure cheap and simple from twin wall polycarbonate roof panels. Should be under £20 and completely transparent and lightweight too.
Definately an enclosure is the way to go for Abs.. Don't like the electronics being inside it though.
Aitch :o
That sounds like a good idea. Maybe keep an eye on enclosure temps but I would be surprised if the heat was enough to damage the electronics.
PETG on the Ender three maybe should be spelt PITA.
Although I'm learning fast.
(https://i.postimg.cc/V5zxzVB3/IMG-20190119-173738.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5zxzVB3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9wXK1DQW/IMG-20190119-173747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wXK1DQW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TL6ZL785/IMG-20190119-173917.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TL6ZL785)
The cog shaped thing is part of a mechanical gismo that I tried to print 6 parts all in one go pretty much with stock cura settings for PETG. It failed first layer adhesion to base was OK but blobby. Iinfils point blank refused to stick to underlying layer. All the unstuck stringgyblobbyness was attracted to the nossle.
Lots and lots of googling led me to reduce speeds to around 50mms for the cube for all print moves and ramp up non print moves. Better but still 1st layer blobbyness and sunsequent layers not wanting to stick to the previous layer. No where near as bad as before but not great. Tried Messing around with tune settings while it was printing only thing that really made a difference was slowing it down even more.
So armed with this I've done some more specific Google searches and found recommended speed for first layer with PETG as low as 15mms also possibly raise z axis offset a little to move nozzle up a little for first layer.
Anyone else has similar experiences and have suggestions?
I guess this will apply to other printers too..
Aitch
P. S.
Good info here http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593 (http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593)
Quote from: Aitch1969 on January 19, 2019, 06:50:15 PM
PETG on the Ender three maybe should be spelt PITA.
Although I'm learning fast.
(https://i.postimg.cc/V5zxzVB3/IMG-20190119-173738.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5zxzVB3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9wXK1DQW/IMG-20190119-173747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wXK1DQW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TL6ZL785/IMG-20190119-173917.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TL6ZL785)
The cog shaped thing is part of a mechanical gismo that I tried to print 6 parts all in one go pretty much with stock cura settings for PETG. It failed first layer adhesion to base was OK but blobby. Iinfils point blank refused to stick to underlying layer. All the unstuck stringgyblobbyness was attracted to the nossle.
Lots and lots of googling led me to reduce speeds to around 50mms for the cube for all print moves and ramp up non print moves. Better but still 1st layer blobbyness and sunsequent layers not wanting to stick to the previous layer. No where near as bad as before but not great. Tried Messing around with tune settings while it was printing only thing that really made a difference was slowing it down even more.
So armed with this I've done some more specific Google searches and found recommended speed for first layer with PETG as low as 15mms also possibly raise z axis offset a little to move nozzle up a little for first layer.
Anyone else has similar experiences and have suggestions?
I guess this will apply to other printers too..
Aitch
P. S.
Good info here http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593 (http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593)
You can try and add some smoothers to your steppers they simply just plug and play
Quote from: jono44 on January 20, 2019, 03:59:53 AM
You can try and add some smoothers to your steppers they simply just plug and play
What do smoothers do? And how would they help..
Spent some time on. Google and found this
https://youtu.be/Vt-7xZUsPJ0
Not sure it's the way to go. Certainly for specific filament and temperature related issues
The print finish I'm getting is good.
As far as I can tell
PETG is very time / temperature sensitive firstly to get bed adhesion. (and don't squish onto the bed add some z offset and let it lie down very slowly) And then for layer adhesion. (keep infill speeds slow) overall speeds over 50mms cause a problem. I'm printing at 240c if I try any part fan cooling layer adhesion suffers unless adding more heat and slowing down more.
I think it has to impart more heat into the previous layer to allow adhesion much like ABS. whereas Abs just suffers poor layer adhesion and a weak part but no real print finish problems PETG layer adhesion fails leading to blobbystringynesses.
Thanks aitch
Made a few changes to my PETG test profile and now the first layer is looking good.
Bed temp 80c 1st layer 70c after
Layers
250c 1st layer then 240c
Speed 20mms 1st layer then 50mms
Layer height 0.25 1st layer then 0.2mm
No part cooling
Retraction 5mm @ 40mms
Infill 10% triangles
I had also re levelled the bed for good measure.
1st layer
(https://i.postimg.cc/mchHYxqz/IMG-20190120-105423.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mchHYxqz)
2nd layer
(https://i.postimg.cc/N5gL8q2s/IMG-20190120-105758.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5gL8q2s)
Infils after 4 layers
(https://i.postimg.cc/nCcwQ2Zs/IMG-20190120-110708.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCcwQ2Zs)
So far so good I'll need to wait 5 hours to know. There are some small bridges on the part so PETG may not be the right choice but wanted to do it as a test piece. If it's functional all the better.
In the interest of science and because all the online advice says to use part cooling fan. At 4mm high I added 40% part cooling and increased nossle temp to 250c. But after about 4 layers it stared blobbing
Aitch
What slicer are you using?
Never did quite stop the stringing. Maybe I'm over extruding particularly on the infill? Not sure how to modify extrusion rates yet...
(https://i.postimg.cc/K38dTggy/IMG-20190120-171551.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K38dTggy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7GVFbNhV/IMG-20190120-171600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GVFbNhV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kDMrzLYh/IMG-20190120-171612.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kDMrzLYh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D8MKq5gp/IMG-20190120-171629.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8MKq5gp)
Aitch
Try 225 to 230c temp and lower your retraction settings. Also lower your extrusion multiplayer a touch.
Quote from: Aitch1969 on January 20, 2019, 08:14:18 AM
What do smoothers do? And how would they help..
Spent some time on. Google and found this
https://youtu.be/Vt-7xZUsPJ0
Not sure it's the way to go. Certainly for specific filament and temperature related issues
The print finish I'm getting is good.
As far as I can tell
PETG is very time / temperature sensitive firstly to get bed adhesion. (and don't squish onto the bed add some z offset and let it lie down very slowly) And then for layer adhesion. (keep infill speeds slow) overall speeds over 50mms cause a problem. I'm printing at 240c if I try any part fan cooling layer adhesion suffers unless adding more heat and slowing down more.
I think it has to impart more heat into the previous layer to allow adhesion much like ABS. whereas Abs just suffers poor layer adhesion and a weak part but no real print finish problems PETG layer adhesion fails leading to blobbystringynesses.
Thanks aitch
They cost next to nothing lower the noise of the steppers and helps make cleaner better prints by solving artifacts on all filaments
Quote from: jono44 on January 20, 2019, 07:47:31 PM
Try 225 to 230c temp and lower your retraction settings. Also lower your extrusion multiplayer a touch.
Thanks ill try that although so far I haven't been able to find the extraction multiplier in cura..
I'll have a look at the tl smoothers maybe give them a go also. As you say they cost pennies so can't hurt.
Aitch
Quote from: Aitch1969 on January 20, 2019, 08:17:26 PM
Thanks ill try that although so far I haven't been able to find the extraction multiplier in cura..
I'll have a look at the tl smoothers maybe give them a go also. As you say they cost pennies so can't hurt.
Aitch
Go tho the material heading and you can adjust it under flow in small increments or you can do it from the control box under tune then flow.
Got one order(well the credit card WAS in the black,can't have that) So i'll be watching this thread and following pointers given.As for software I'm liking the look of the RS components free 3D CAD package .
It going to be a few weeks until it arrives giving me time to try a few CAD options. The STL files for the upgrades are already downloaded.
But I'm going too need a bigger shed.
Quote from: ManInaShed on January 31, 2019, 09:42:36 AM
Got one order(well the credit card WAS in the black,can't have that) So i'll be watching this thread and following pointers given.As for software I'm liking the look of the RS components free 3D CAD package .
It going to be a few weeks until it arrives giving me time to try a few CAD options. The STL files for the upgrades are already downloaded.
But I'm going too need a bigger shed.
And plenty of filament!
It's worth looking at Fusion 360, after the thirty day demo, it's free for hobbyist s.
Lots and lots of filament. I've 5 rolls and already want more in different materials and colours..
Aitch
Iv'e down loaded 360 Chris thanks for that.
Certainly looks like I could get to grips with 360 easier than Design spark.
The RS designspark is powerfull but after several hours playing and watching tutorials I can see this package taking a while to progress with.
Cura down loded for slicing.
Now on the filiment side of things ,I take it you get what you payfor?
And any decent UK/Europen supplier recomendations?
Cheers.
I have been using this UK supplier for over a year now and both their service and Filament are great.
Their prices are pretty good as well.
https://3dprintz.co.uk
Filament.. over the last couple of months, I've used hobby king PLA and abs, 'the more expensive stuff on hobbyking' and a random selection of PLA and abs from eBay (<£15 /3kg) and cant say I've had any problems with any of it.
Chris
Quote from: chris-s on February 02, 2019, 08:23:26 PM
Filament.. over the last couple of months, I've used hobby king PLA and abs, 'the more expensive stuff on hobbyking' and a random selection of PLA and abs from eBay (<£15 /3kg) and cant say I've had any problems with any of it.
Chris
That seems cheap. Can you recommend any specific sellers on ebay or the listings you bought?
Cheers
Quote from: ched on February 02, 2019, 08:30:19 PM
That seems cheap. Can you recommend any specific sellers on ebay or the listings you bought?
Cheers
Apologies, I fat fingered that, should have been 1kg. Here is a link anyhow ...
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332866908572 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332866908572)
I've bought a couple of grey and a blue from this seller £10/kg.
Chris
Looks good, bit limited on colours at moment. Hopefully they restock.
Thanks
Since clicking the order button on the ender I've spent a fair few hours on different CAD packages :-\ (?)
FreeCAD,Blender,Fusion,DesignSpark.
The one that appears to have clicked the quickest with is Design spark.
Managed to knock up a plan for my cheapo firefly cam with the intention of ading it too a pan n tilt FPV assy that was designed for a 26mm FPV/Mobius set up. I can see complex designs are a few months away so hope to marry this part (some how) with downloaded modules.
This is messy in places and I think starting from scratch will be the best option.
Still not a waste of time , a good excercise and part of the learning curve.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Sj2jR64y/Screenshot-2.png) (https://postimg.cc/Sj2jR64y)
You will wonder where the hours have gone. Keep plodding on. :P
Quote from: Drone 5 on February 04, 2019, 05:41:21 PM
You will wonder where the hours have gone. Keep plodding on. :P
Iv'e emerged from the shed blinking in the sun light after several days emaciated and high on caffeine. :'(
Looking like Gollum from Lord of the Rings.
Think I'm doing the fusion 360 route now.
That looks like my double. :D
Been busy week here too dialling in settings for filamentive wood pla. Which I plan to never use again.... But got something that works now and 50 hours of set and forget printing now almost finished
Aitch
Ha! I finally got around to making an enclosure for mine since it lives in the garage (unheated) and after getting it really warm and toasty using an additional heater to print some large ABS parts, I now have to reprint my PLA Ender upgrades which wilted with the heat!
Quote from: chris-s on February 10, 2019, 10:17:07 PM
Ha! I finally got around to making an enclosure for mine since it lives in the garage (unheated) and after getting it really warm and toasty using an additional heater to print some large ABS parts, I now have to reprint my PLA Ender upgrades which wilted with the heat!
Oopsie. Just how hot did it get
I reccon I got between 50 and 60 degrees just putting a bin bag over it. And at that abs printed just perfect.
Aitch
Well I didn't expect to progress so quickly with the Ender3 .The few meters of PLA that came with it have printed out my filament guides.With only a couple of aborted prints due to bed levelling.From the box to reasonable print in 4 hrs ;D
My 1kg roll arrives tomorrow, think a few smaller prints are in order untill the talon pan&tilt with canopy is printed.
But very impressed with the Endor 3 after 1 day.