Creality - Ender 3

[Aitch1969]

Been thinking about an enclosure cheap and simple from twin wall polycarbonate roof panels. Should be under £20 and completely transparent and lightweight too.

Definately an enclosure is the way to go for Abs.. Don't like the electronics being inside it though.

Aitch :o

[ched]

That sounds like a good idea. Maybe keep an eye on enclosure temps but I would be surprised if the heat was enough to damage the electronics.

[Aitch1969]

PETG on the Ender three maybe should be spelt PITA.
Although I'm learning fast.






The cog shaped thing is part of a mechanical gismo that I tried to print 6 parts all in one go pretty much with stock cura settings for PETG. It failed first layer adhesion to base was OK but blobby. Iinfils point blank refused to stick to underlying layer. All the unstuck stringgyblobbyness was attracted to the nossle.

Lots and lots of googling led me to reduce speeds to around 50mms for the cube for all print moves and ramp up non print moves. Better but still 1st layer blobbyness and sunsequent layers not wanting to stick to the previous layer. No where near as bad as before but not great. Tried Messing around with tune settings while it was printing only thing that really made a difference was slowing it down even more.

So armed with this I've done some more specific Google searches and found recommended speed for first layer with PETG as low as 15mms also possibly raise z axis offset a little to move nozzle up a little for first layer.

Anyone else has similar experiences and have suggestions?

I guess this will apply to other printers too..

Aitch

P. S.

Good info here http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593

[jono44]

PETG on the Ender three maybe should be spelt PITA.
Although I'm learning fast.






The cog shaped thing is part of a mechanical gismo that I tried to print 6 parts all in one go pretty much with stock cura settings for PETG. It failed first layer adhesion to base was OK but blobby. Iinfils point blank refused to stick to underlying layer. All the unstuck stringgyblobbyness was attracted to the nossle.

Lots and lots of googling led me to reduce speeds to around 50mms for the cube for all print moves and ramp up non print moves. Better but still 1st layer blobbyness and sunsequent layers not wanting to stick to the previous layer. No where near as bad as before but not great. Tried Messing around with tune settings while it was printing only thing that really made a difference was slowing it down even more.

So armed with this I've done some more specific Google searches and found recommended speed for first layer with PETG as low as 15mms also possibly raise z axis offset a little to move nozzle up a little for first layer.

Anyone else has similar experiences and have suggestions?

I guess this will apply to other printers too..

Aitch

P. S.

Good info here http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593

You can try and add some smoothers to your steppers they simply just plug and play

[Aitch1969]

You can try and add some smoothers to your steppers they simply just plug and play

What do smoothers do? And how would they help..

Spent some time on. Google and found this
https://youtu.be/Vt-7xZUsPJ0
Not sure it's the way to go. Certainly for specific filament and temperature related issues

The print finish I'm getting is good.
As far as I can tell
PETG is very time / temperature sensitive firstly to get bed adhesion. (and don't squish onto the bed add some z offset and let it lie down very slowly) And then for layer adhesion. (keep infill speeds slow) overall speeds over 50mms cause a problem. I'm printing at 240c if I try any part fan cooling layer adhesion suffers unless adding more heat and slowing down more.

I think it has to impart more heat into the previous layer to allow adhesion much like ABS. whereas Abs just suffers poor layer adhesion and a weak part but no real print finish problems PETG layer adhesion fails leading to blobbystringynesses.

Thanks aitch

[Aitch1969]

Made a few changes to my PETG test profile and now the first layer is looking good.

Bed temp 80c 1st layer 70c after
Layers
250c 1st layer then 240c
Speed 20mms 1st layer then 50mms
Layer height 0.25 1st layer then 0.2mm
No part cooling
Retraction 5mm @ 40mms
Infill 10% triangles

I had also re levelled the bed for good measure.

1st layer


2nd layer


Infils after 4 layers


So far so good I'll need to wait 5 hours to know. There are some small bridges on the part so PETG may not be the right choice but wanted to do it as a test piece. If it's functional all the better.

In the interest of science and because all the online advice says to use part cooling fan. At 4mm high I added 40% part cooling and increased nossle temp to 250c. But after about 4 layers it stared blobbing

Aitch

[BigT]

What slicer are you using?

[Aitch1969]

What slicer are you using?

Cura....

Aitch

[Aitch1969]

Never did quite stop the stringing. Maybe I'm over extruding particularly on the infill? Not sure how to modify extrusion rates yet...










Aitch

[jono44]

Try 225 to 230c  temp and lower your retraction settings. Also lower your extrusion multiplayer a touch.

[jono44]

What do smoothers do? And how would they help..

Spent some time on. Google and found this
https://youtu.be/Vt-7xZUsPJ0
Not sure it's the way to go. Certainly for specific filament and temperature related issues

The print finish I'm getting is good.
As far as I can tell
PETG is very time / temperature sensitive firstly to get bed adhesion. (and don't squish onto the bed add some z offset and let it lie down very slowly) And then for layer adhesion. (keep infill speeds slow) overall speeds over 50mms cause a problem. I'm printing at 240c if I try any part fan cooling layer adhesion suffers unless adding more heat and slowing down more.

I think it has to impart more heat into the previous layer to allow adhesion much like ABS. whereas Abs just suffers poor layer adhesion and a weak part but no real print finish problems PETG layer adhesion fails leading to blobbystringynesses.

Thanks aitch

They cost next to nothing lower the noise of the steppers and helps make cleaner better prints by solving artifacts on all filaments

[Aitch1969]

Try 225 to 230c  temp and lower your retraction settings. Also lower your extrusion multiplayer a touch.

Thanks ill try that although so far I haven't been able to find the extraction multiplier in cura..

I'll have a look at the tl smoothers maybe give them a go also. As you say they cost pennies so can't hurt.

Aitch

[jono44]

Thanks ill try that although so far I haven't been able to find the extraction multiplier in cura..

I'll have a look at the tl smoothers maybe give them a go also. As you say they cost pennies so can't hurt.

Aitch

Go tho the material heading and you can adjust it under flow in small increments or you can do it from the control box under  tune then flow.

[ManInaShed]

Got one order(well the credit card WAS in the black,can't have that) So i'll be watching this thread and following pointers given.As for software I'm liking the look of the RS components free 3D CAD package .
It going to be a few weeks until it arrives giving me time to try a few CAD options. The STL files for the upgrades are already downloaded.
But I'm going too need a bigger shed.

[chris-s]

Got one order(well the credit card WAS in the black,can't have that) So i'll be watching this thread and following pointers given.As for software I'm liking the look of the RS components free 3D CAD package .
It going to be a few weeks until it arrives giving me time to try a few CAD options. The STL files for the upgrades are already downloaded.
But I'm going too need a bigger shed.

And plenty of filament!

It's worth looking at Fusion 360, after the thirty day demo, it's free for hobbyist s.