E.T.s OMNIBUS F4 Autopilot...Which one to buy..?...AKK

[English Turbines]

I don't like the idea of powering the servos from the board. I was planning to have an sbec powered by the flight pack driving the servos via an additional row of pins on a common pos and neg rail like the MFD and APS.  Question is do the servo earths need to be common to the board or not?

  Well, I have used the ESCs 5volt BEC direct onto the FC with no problems at all. It works fine.  Not sure Id want to hang some high current noisy digitals on there though.

  The wiring loom you are suggesting for your servos sounds horrendous....

  There may be an onboard filter of some kind to prevent noise from the servos entering back into the FC...?

  Powering the FC / RX / GPS just from the USB line for example will not power a servo, but it will power everything else....?

                                                                                               :vulture:                                                                                             

[BigT]

Not horrendous really. You have to connect, say, 4 servos plugs to the fc anyway so all I will do is pull the signal wire from the plug and push it onto the signal pin. The other 2 stay in the servo plug which goes onto the  made  up power rail.

[English Turbines]

Not horrendous really. You have to connect, say, 4 servos plugs to the fc anyway so all I will do is pull the signal wire from the plug and push it onto the signal pin. The other 2 stay in the servo plug which goes onto the  made  up power rail.

   Yes, I realise how it's done....I dont think it's necessary though, and the extra wiring is avoided. If you are planning on using digital servos, it could be an alternative.
  Digitals tend to draw a lot of current though, and since I fly in GPS Mode most of the time, the servos would be working pretty hard almost constantly.
  Id suggest keeping it simple, at least to start with, it is known to work just fine.

                                                                                                :vulture:

[BigT]

   Yes, I realise how it's done....I dont think it's necessary though, and the extra wiring is avoided. If you are planning on using digital servos, it could be an alternative.
  Digitals tend to draw a lot of current though, and since I fly in GPS Mode most of the time, the servos would be working pretty hard almost constantly.
  Id suggest keeping it simple, at least to start with, it is known to work just fine.

                                                                                                :vulture:

sorry ET, didn't mean to be condescending. I totally agree with a  KISS approach for the first install. I must go back over your postings and the iNav wiki and create a do it in this order list. As an aside I do get peed off when I order a particular board from a web site and something different turns up.

[English Turbines]

sorry ET, didn't mean to be condescending. I totally agree with a  KISS approach for the first install. I must go back over your postings and the iNav wiki and create a do it in this order list. As an aside I do get peed off when I order a particular board from a web site and something different turns up.

Hi m8,
             It's a debate, so we can debate the Pro and Cons, no offence taken at all..horrendous was a bit OTT.....but I have to agree, Im a bit of a keep it simple fiend myself TBH. This setup really does allow it too which makes it a great candidate for small rigs.

  Surprised AKK screwed up your order though, they sent you something different to what you ordered didn't they?

I have had two of my FCs (and GPS) from UK based E-Bay suppliers in the past, but last I looked, nobody had any stock.!!!!

                                                                                              :vulture:

[BigT]

I just followed Adams link and ordered from Gearbest not AAK.  But what turned up is not a genuine board so my fault really.

[English Turbines]

I don't like the idea of powering the servos from the board. I have had issues with that before on large models with 30kg servos putting the rx into failsafe during high load manoeuvres. I was planning to have an sbec  like this   https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5a-8-26v-sbec-for-lipo.html powered by the flight pack driving the servos via an additional row of pins on a common pos and neg rail like the MFD and APS probably robbed from a broken rx or similar.   Question is do the servo earths need to be common to the board or not? Probably not. Just pull the signal wire from the servo lead.

  Hi m8,
                Well Today I soldered some pin headers onto this V1 AKK board...Its configured exactly as the first one I bought so Im familiar with it.
  Using the RAM Jumper to provide VBAT to both VTX and Camera, convenient.  Then a polarised JST to power the board with main Lipo voltage, as usual.
  5vdc showed up at the SBUS pin from the 5v onboard Linear Reg which in turn powers the receiver....but not on the rest of the servo output pins....so, it is isolated in some way.
   This means you can apply your big (separate) 5 amp 5volt servo supply to the servo rail and you are good to go.

I have iNAV loaded on this FC and intend putting it in my old Alien 500 with a Camera and VTX but no GPS. I know it's an old Quad but I just want a filming platform and something slow and big to learn on.
So, it's out with the old KK board and replace with the Omnibus F4. No idea how to tune the PIDS but I used the 10 Inch presets option, which is a 500 to 600 Quad of some kind.
  I managed to program my Taranis TX to output RSSI on channel #16 of my X8R and its now working and showing on the OSD...result..:)
  Last time I flew it, LOS was difficult as I had trouble with orientation at distance, so maybe FPV will solve that one..?

                                                                                                ;) :vulture:
 





 
 

 

[BigT]

Talking to the Omnibus developer/inventor, Teralift,  on RC Groups and asked him for his personal recommendation for which Omni board he would use for fixed wing iNav. His answer was F4 v2 non pro with the LDO removed and a 5 volt sbec. Also he has said that any Omni board that is not blue is a knockoff.

I then asked him for further clarification. E.g. what and where is the LDO and how does one remove it and does the sbec provide power to the board or the servos?

He sent me this link, which I will need to read at least 4 times to grasp.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2790167-OMNIBUS-F4-LDO-woes

And more importantly for iNav fixed wing use, this

OMNIBUS/AIRBOT F4 family: ESC_5V Isolation
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=8309&share_tid=2874687&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ercgroups%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D2874687&share_type=t

The more I get into this the less I want to do it. I do not have the eyesight or dexterity needed to desolder micro diodes and such like. I don't get why this is not mentioned in iNav wiki? Or is it and I have not seen it yet?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[English Turbines]

Talking to the Omnibus developer/inventor, Teralift,  on RC Groups and asked him for his personal recommendation for which Omni board he would use for fixed wing iNav. His answer was F4 v2 non pro with the LDO removed and a 5 volt sbec. Also he has said that any Omni board that is not blue is a knockoff.

I then asked him for further clarification. E.g. what and where is the LDO and how does one remove it and does the sbec provide power to the board or the servos?

He sent me this link, which I will need to read at least 4 times to grasp.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2790167-OMNIBUS-F4-LDO-woes

And more importantly for iNav fixed wing use, this

OMNIBUS/AIRBOT F4 family: ESC_5V Isolation
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=8309&share_tid=2874687&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ercgroups%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D2874687&share_type=t

The more I get into this the less I want to do it. I do not have the eyesight or dexterity needed to desolder micro diodes and such like. I don't get why this is not mentioned in iNav wiki? Or is it and I have not seen it yet?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi m8,

  You won't need to, if you want to use servos and in particular if they are digitals or high current, then ensure they have a separate 5v (or higher) supply to drive them which is not on the servo output rail....(as you initially suggested)

  It's worth noting that my Falcon works perfectly with servos running using the Motors ESC Bec on the rail, but if they were high output servos or digitals then it's maybe not such a good idea in light of this information.

                                                                                                :vulture:

[BigT]

If the theory is correct then the diode layout should sense that the servo rial is being used and power the board as well. Need to make sure that the BEC or Sbus has enough amps. I always power the camera and vtx from a separate filtered supply ever since the first days of the diagonal lines with fatshark vtx.  Actually I dont on the CL Racing F4 boards as they have a super clean power supply.  If you want to use the volts monitor then the LDO would need to be chopped though.  Also there is the issue of only 4 channels on the FC so flaps will need to be a permanent bypass from the rx.
Anyhow I am struggling to find any info on the pinouts for iNav for the different boards, so thats quite a stumbling block for anyone starting out. I thought I had seen one but cant find it now.  Found this though

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=%2FywhKCiM&id=FD873A3C4499D903D93C0F0888977E5FD14C792E&thid=OIP._ywhKCiMrVRLq4aXLW9hZgHaGj&q=omnibus+f4+pro+pinout&simid=607995533725993981&qpvt=omnibus+f4+pro+pinout&ajaxhist=0&first=1

[English Turbines]

If the theory is correct then the diode layout should sense that the servo rial is being used and power the board as well. Need to make sure that the BEC or Sbus has enough amps. I always power the camera and vtx from a separate filtered supply ever since the first days of the diagonal lines with fatshark vtx.  Actually I dont on the CL Racing F4 boards as they have a super clean power supply.  If you want to use the volts monitor then the LDO would need to be chopped though.  Also there is the issue of only 4 channels on the FC so flaps will need to be a permanent bypass from the rx.
Anyhow I am struggling to find any info on the pinouts for iNav for the different boards, so thats quite a stumbling block for anyone starting out. I thought I had seen one but cant find it now.  Found this though

Hi m8,

On most F4 boards there are 6 Servo Pinouts.

Numbers 1 and 2 are reserved for motors as I recall....(for twins)

The remaining four depend on the aircraft type and how it's flight surfaces are configured as you can customise it.







                                                                                               :vulture:

[AdamG]

I just followed Adams link and ordered from Gearbest not AAK.  But what turned up is not a genuine board so my fault really.

What was wrong with the gearbest one?

[BigT]

What was wrong with the gearbest one?

Well we know it's a clone for a start as it's not blue colour, then, if I understand the info from  Teralift, theres a lot of fiddly stuff to do, diodes to remove, separate power supply to servos to prevent board rebooting in flight, LDO to be disconnected or removed from the board. There are also posts saying that servo outputs 4 and 5 don't work on the v2 and of course there is the k own issue with sbus or ppm jumpers needing removing.

The Omnibus main designer does not recommend even using a genuine F4 v2 to v5 Pro for iNav but a gen v1 with LDO removed. See

OMNIBUS/AIRBOT F4 family: ESC_5V Isolation
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=8309&share_tid=2874687&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ercgroups%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D2874687&share_type=t

Also

https://github.com/iNavFlight/inav/issues/2576

Adam, i think I will sit this one out and observe those with  more electronics experience results. I've just  Been offered a brand  new in box MTD Twin and MFD AP for £150 so I may go for that instead rather than risk a new airframe on this iNav malarkey 🤨. I was only doing it out of curiosity and to keep the little grey cells occupied.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[AdamG]

This guy recommends the fake one over the real one  :laugh:

https://youtu.be/d2yRSgwYIuk

[BigT]

This guy recommends the fake one over the real one  :laugh:

https://youtu.be/d2yRSgwYIuk

Who?

I dont think its a question of cloned or real. I think its the model and version of the FC that is critical.  Anyhow watching with interest, the rest of my ordered parts are still stuck on the high seas.