Mutley's Drak

[mutley2]

I used normal leaded solder, it's strong enough and I've been making linkages like this for a very long time and not had a failure. Just make sure its hot enough and you use a good flux so it flows well.  :thumbsup:

[dp106]

I put some together last night and just super glued them on.. Probably a bad idea but only on a glider so hopefully not subject to the same forces a Drak will be..

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[Dave G]

I used normal leaded solder, it's strong enough and I've been making linkages like this for a very long time and not had a failure. Just make sure its hot enough and you use a good flux so it flows well.  :thumbsup:

Do you think this will work with a standard soldering iron? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171698909973?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=470664978759&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Dave G]

Sorry, just re-read your post and notice you use leaded solder, not lead free - don't know where i picked up the 'it has to be lead free' bit from  :+

[Dave G]

I put some together last night and just super glued them on.. Probably a bad idea but only on a glider so hopefully not subject to the same forces a Drak will be..

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Hi DP 106, thanks for your comment, but like you, I'm not sure super glue would be up to the job - i find its normally really good at glueing my fingers together  ;D

[mutley2]

Hey ya Dave, I use leaded (full-fat) solder because it has got a lower melting point and flows better, send me a self addressed envelop and I will pop some in the post to you if this helps.
PM me for address

:thumbsup:

[Andy Sayle]

I've used leaded solder for soldering clevises in place before too.  It works great, and if you want to make sure it works great, just add it to your pre flight checks.

I normally fit clevises that can be adjusted these days though, so on mine it will be threaded rods, threaded clevises, and locking nuts to stop them moving about when I don't want them to...

Cheers
Andy

[Dave G]

Hey ya Dave, I use leaded (full-fat) solder because it has got a lower melting point and flows better, send me a self addressed envelop and I will pop some in the post to you if this helps.
PM me for address

:thumbsup:

Yes please, that would be much appreciated, I'll mail you shortly,

[Dave G]

I've used leaded solder for soldering clevises in place before too.  It works great, and if you want to make sure it works great, just add it to your pre flight checks.

I normally fit clevises that can be adjusted these days though, so on mine it will be threaded rods, threaded clevises, and locking nuts to stop them moving about when I don't want them to...

Cheers
Andy

Thanks Andy, I bought the stock control rods and horns, so am trying to follow Chris Clicks videos. Gonna have a go with the solder Mutley2 uses - this is the only part of the build that is casing me problems  (?)

[mutley2]

After flying my Drak a number of times in a high issh grass field I've decided to remove the outer winglets, the reason being is they keep ripping off on landing.
This has been noted by other Drak owners and I would advise others not to fit them as they have worked well on the Z3 but are a pain on the Drak, just thought I would mention this.

[Billy_boy_2010]

interesting Mutley- can you explain why they work less well on the drak?  Have you noticed an increase in stall speed or any 9ther disadvantages?

[mutley2]

Hey Billy, I think its a number of reasons like the wing span drops the tips lower, and when on the ground coming to a halt the inboard fins/skids on the Z3 are the width of the wing but on the Drak there is only a short contact area, making it more prone to skid side ways and pull the trailing wing tip skid off. Mine were stuck on with goop and have pulled off on a number of landings in long grass. Another thing I've done is the Fuzz-correx fin-wing leading edge joint tends to trap long grass and try to pull the wing out, a small wrap of tape over this joint stops this. Nothing big but helps keep you flying rather than arsing around making your craft ready for another flight, just thought I would share these ramblings, hope it helps.
Still working on the CG and failsafe/RTH so I've not got round to that yet, will report when I do.

[mutley2]

Went for a early morning sortie this morning and although blowy it was bright and crisp, this is my first proper non-setup flights, nothing to do but play and it became clear that this is what the Drak is made for, leryness has started, nose down a tad and 101MPH in a flash and the taps are not fully open, the pic's.

Have you noticed an increase in stall speed or any 9ther disadvantages?

Got a good amount of height and did some glide testing for fun, stopped the motor and the nose dropped a few degs and she kept 40MPH airspeed (CG is where I like it now at 41 mm from front spar slot and she balances level at this) dropped the nose and got to 50MPH and had a steady pull on the elevator, nose came up, speed dropped, nose went down, that was it. No wing drop, nothing, just nodded and picked up speed, this was tried into wind and at 90degs left and right.

Oppps

! No longer available

[mutley2]

Hey guys, just an update on my Drak, after many hundreds of flights and with me getting the Sky Hunter, Mini Talon and Mini Drak the old campaigner is looking a bit rough around the edges and way under tech after a few years service, plus I don't fly her any more.  :-[
So tonight I started the strip down, gone has the Cyclone Tornado, Fatshark camera, Lipo's and model finder.
The refit will have a program on my Horus 12s so all my models are off one TX, replace underside lam, new Lipo's, Eagle tree FC with all the whistles and bells, Runcam Eagle pro and I might get a new motor.
This bird should be flying again this spring and all sorted for a number of UK based road trips this summer, down side is the re-maiden which I really hate.
Roll on summer.

[Coyote]

Drak 2.0 :)