The K-Quad now available for download from Thingiverse

Started by krikey, January 02, 2014, 05:17:21 PM

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CAndrewGreen

Now to some pics, I found some little pvc thingys to push on the end of the UC which raise it just that little bit, up off the 3S 1000mAh LiPo.

I drilled a couple of holes for the antenna tube and esc wires. I went slow using the drill press at work and it drilled like any other solid plastic, being analy retentive I then de-pinned the esc plugs, passed them through and re-pinned them for neatness! I even used a matching green antenna tube.

Andrew

friesianflyer

Hi CAndrewGreen, your k quad looks amazing! - great build......

What length screws did you end up using, and where did you manage to find the rubber feet? - my k quad should be with me next week, and I may have to steal, copy some of your ideas....... ;)

Thanks.

CAndrewGreen

#47
Hi,
Yours should come complete with screws, mine is one of the first few, I used M4 x 45's I also found I needed to add an M4 nylon washer between the undercart and the arms for a good fit.
What controller are you going to fit?
You're welcome to use my ideas.... if you want better pics of any of it let me know, it turned out quite neat eventually, I've spent most of the morning trying to decide whether to fit a fixed fpv camera or a pan and tilt like on my big quad.

Andrew

Nearly forgot... the feet are protective caps from two part rubber potting compound packs that are thrown away at work, if you want some I think I've got some on my desk that you can have.....

krikey

Looking rather lovely Andrew. Those pictures really make the green glow.
Krikey

CurryKitten

What a super-neat build Andrew, very nice.  As the 1st person on a 3s, what motors are you using, and how long are you getting out of your 1000mah lipo.


CAndrewGreen

Thanks for the compliment, I took my time thinking about the installation...I hate having random wires poking out all over the place. I spent an evening crimping up the Rx to KK wires so they laid nicely.
Bear in mind I've had 'flu for a week so I haven't done much flying other than a brief hop the other evening and 4 or 5 minutes in the living room today (family out).
The motors are Turnigy 1811 2000 kV the silver version of the ones you'e using in 2000 kV form. I probably need 2 blade props really, as the motors seemed to get quite warm. I'm only using 3S 1000mAh LiPos as I already use them in my TRex 250's so I thought I'd give it a try.
I'll get a chance to give a proper trimming session on Monday evening at our indoor heli club in Reading.
Andrew

krikey

Those silver 1811s are rated for 7v 2s so they may indeed get a bit hot :)
Krikey

friesianflyer

I will be using a kk2.1, any close up photos would be appreciated....


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CAndrewGreen

#53
Quote from: krikey on January 25, 2014, 10:35:27 PM
Those silver 1811s are rated for 7v 2s so they may indeed get a bit hot :)

Yeah, I know but they were cheap! and brushless motors don't have a voltage rating as such the spec says max efficiency is @ 5.5A so they should meltdown at about the same time as the 6A esc's lol. (Which are also allegedly for 7.4V!)
I don't particularly like the weedy 2mm shafts or the mounting method, I'm liking the look of http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__39033__Turnigy_Multistar_1704_1900Kv_12Pole_Multi_Rotor_Outrunner.html but they're global warehouse only and always out of stock >:(
Andrew

CAndrewGreen

Quote from: alreadytaken on January 25, 2014, 11:10:12 PM
I will be using a kk2.1, any close up photos would be appreciated....

Here's one looking straight down on the KK2:

You'll probably find that you need to file the holes in your KK board outwards about a mm or so to fit the mounting holes if you intend to use (nylon) screws to fix it. I carefully tapped the holes in the mounting plate M3. I then screwed the KK board to the plate before (carefully) superglueing the plate in place to make sure that the plate went in centrally. Ignore all this if you'e going to use velcro or double sided tape to fix your KK board.

Andrew

Flypoppa

I was just about to build a 250mm type quad, but for £20 why bother. My question is. How durable is the 'printed plastic'? OK I know spares are available, but has anyone had a 'heavy landing', and done damage?

CAndrewGreen

Today, being crap weather I finally got around putting some appropriate connectors on the cheapo HK wattmeter that I bought ages ago.
A brief hover recorded a max current of 9~10A, while holding it overhead @WOT only showed 10.7A so dividing that between 4 motors would suggest that I'm on the safe side of meltdown!
It hovers somewhat over 1/2 throttle so maybe the motors aren't quite high enough Kv or it needs a bit more prop? If it proves to have enough voom then I'll just tweak the throttle curve to push the hover position down a bit.

Andrew

I just got some extension tubes for my dslr so I've been practising my close up photography:
One pic shows how I filed the holes out on the KK board to get the screwholes to line up (it looks excessive but some of that is parallax).
The other is my custom crimped short Rx-KK loom.

CurryKitten

Quote from: Flypoppa on January 26, 2014, 06:37:44 PM
I was just about to build a 250mm type quad, but for £20 why bother. My question is. How durable is the 'printed plastic'? OK I know spares are available, but has anyone had a 'heavy landing', and done damage?

I managed to break the legs on mine, but I had to smack it into a branch, and then thump it on the ground pretty hard.... twice.  I'd kind of expect something to break in most 'traditional' frames after that

FPV Crashing: If at first you don't succeed, try and smash it on the 2nd go

krikey

#58
I'm working on some different arms now (after a 3D print of a few Minecraft pigs for my Son and Daughter).



These arms will be thicker so probably stronger, but definitely heavier so keep an eney on this thread for more information on this. The downside might be that if the arms are too strong, something else will break that perhaps is harder or more expensive to fix.

CurryKittens arms actually break in all the right places and leave the core intact or the motor intact which I assure you wasn't by design but more by happy accident so I'll not be eliminating V2 arms as there may be a requirement for some people to go for lighter weight.

There are currently 2 designs of the K-Quad which differ in only one way and that is the hole spacing for the bolts. V1 holes were closer together width wise and V2 was modded to have more width between the bolts.

Another aspect I'd like to consider is holding the battery in different locations on the frame... well either above or below the base plate. This might be achieved by using longer bolts and longer spacers and perhaps a "mezanine" floor in between the base plate and the top plate.

On another note, I'm also considering how to 3D print a modular arm rather than a single piece arm, which will be longer than the current K-Quad design as I'd like to see if its possible to create a 350 frame and then see how bendy it is.
Krikey

CAndrewGreen

I don't know what others think, I quite like the look of them, nice low pofile, barring the fact that they're only in the global warehouse and they're back ordered. They would also only suit 3S operation. If someone has got some / gets some I'd be interested to know what size the internal shaft is......

Andrew