FlyingWings Venturi FPV Evo

Started by iPeel, December 05, 2014, 07:37:47 PM

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Coyote

As above but the cowling part of it, whats that called :)
Education and schoolin is good, but FPV is gooder :)

Gundummy

FPV - The unusual hobby of flying £££'s miles away from you in the hope you see it again.

iPeel

Quote from: wgt40w on December 07, 2014, 07:12:07 PM
What is the Dremel bit you use to rout out the pockets technically named ? I want to buy one - can it be bought on its' own or is it part of an accessory kit ???

It's the tile cutting bit but TBH the TCT router bit works best, I just couldn't find it!

You can buy the assembly here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-Ceramic-Tile-Cutting-Kit/dp/B0002SMN9Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417976687&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+tile+attachment

Neil.

Coyote

Education and schoolin is good, but FPV is gooder :)

Gundummy

FPV - The unusual hobby of flying £££'s miles away from you in the hope you see it again.

iPeel

OK, got quite a bit done today, almost ready for the maiden!

First though, the boring bits. I started to wire up everything on the wings so that I could laminate the wing with the wiring in place.

I buy lengths of ribbon cable on eBay then just cut the length and number of cores I need. I'm going to use a single run of ribbon cable for the PPM output of the RX, the RSSI and the GPS:



I crimped everything up and kept relevant colours for the ground pins so I knew which way round they are meant to go:



After connecting up the RX and the GPS I cut a slot to the correct depth to take the ribbon cable and teased the cable in with pliers:



Next up, I cut the VTX bay using the seemingly popular Dremel method and cut a channel for the cable. I use individually screened headphone cable, the "right" channel for power, the "left" channel for video to keep noise out of the video feed:



Now I'l ready to laminate the wings, but even though it's a ballache getting everything connected to an MFD Autopilot I thought it worth doing to make sure everything worked before laminating:



Now, before I started laminating I considered the chicken and egg situation. I wanted to laminate the wings before glueing them to the centre section, but the single spar running through both wings needs glue applying into the slot before the wing halves go together:



What I decided I'd do was to laminate starting from the slot towards the back of the wing, then when I laminated the rest I would leave a flap of laminate unheated which I'd then finish off once the wing halves were together:





Once the wings were laminated I tacked in place the spar to the centre section with hot glue so I knew it was even on both sides:



Then I glued the little fillets which meet up with the front of each wing. I left this until now so that they would fit flush against the front of the wing:



While I waited for the POR to go off, time to admire the work so far:



Once those were in place and dried I applied POR to the wing and centre section and left it 10 minutes:



Then I slid the wing over the dry spar until it was almost at the joint of the centre section and squirted glue into the spar and rotated the wing several times to get glues all around the spar:



And that's the wing glued together!:




CurryKitten

Very noob question from me.  I notice one of the issues is that after laminating the balance can change and so your carefully laid out components might suddenly end up being nose/tail heavy and so weight will need to be added.

Is there a reason not to laminate the wings before you make cuts for an easy way to balance with all your stuff on there ?

iPeel

#37
Next up I cut a channel for the board cam feed through the bulkhead so I could route the cable underneath the battery tray, this will be nicely hidden by the foam underneath the centre section:



This will probably be fixed in the release version, but I found that the slots for the battery straps didn't have as much material as I'd like between them and the cutouts in the plywood, so I reinforced them with coffee stirrers:



Next, time to attach the elevons. I used 3M Blenderm using the Ritewing method:



The I laminated the hatch, leaving a strip of laminate that I'll use to attach it to the front of the centre section:





I double laminated a little strip and attached it to the back of the hatch to make a little tab I could use ti lift the hatch then I used a couple of little battery straps cut to size and glued one to the rear hatch support:



And one to the underside of the rear part of the hatch:



Now I have a velcro sealed hatch.

Looking good, which is more than I can say for my man cave!



.. and plenty of room it turns out in the bay for the AP, current sensor etc:



Not much left to do now, a couple of things I have to follow up with Rob on and I'm waiting for a heatsink for my ESC, then it should be ready for maiden.

CG-wise It's balancing up OK, just a bit nose heavy at the moment based on the figures I've got. I need to validate the CG though by prancing around the field like an idiot giving the wing little lobs to see how it acts.


Neil.

iwan_canobi

Like an OCD wet dream! :P

Looks great, liking the ribbon cable and the shielded cable for the video signal, good idea.

iPeel

Quote from: CurryKitten on December 07, 2014, 09:10:15 PM
Very noob question from me.  I notice one of the issues is that after laminating the balance can change and so your carefully laid out components might suddenly end up being nose/tail heavy and so weight will need to be added.

Is there a reason not to laminate the wings before you make cuts for an easy way to balance with all your stuff on there ?

The only concern I've had before was with my Ninturi because there wasn't room to move anything around in a bay. What I did there was laminate before I cut the battery bays, then use the battery position to balance everything up.

wgt40w

Quote from: iPeel on December 07, 2014, 07:25:22 PM
Quote from: wgt40w on December 07, 2014, 07:12:07 PM
What is the Dremel bit you use to rout out the pockets technically named ? I want to buy one - can it be bought on its' own or is it part of an accessory kit ???

It's the tile cutting bit but TBH the TCT router bit works best, I just couldn't find it!


Neil.

The only Dremel TCT router bits I have found are for the Dremel Trio - this accepts bigger shanked bits than any of the normal Dremels.
What type of Dremel do you use ?
You learn something new every day.

Brucey


iPeel

Quote from: wgt40w on December 07, 2014, 11:50:10 PM
The only Dremel TCT router bits I have found are for the Dremel Trio - this accepts bigger shanked bits than any of the normal Dremels.
What type of Dremel do you use ?

I've got a Dremel pro but all the bits I have are for the standard consumer Dremel.

This should fit a standard Dremel:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dremel+9901


foamster

Thanks to Neil for the build thread.

Bulk heads : I could put some extra slots in to allow movement of the middle bulkhead, allow more movement.
That bulkhead maybe overkill any way.


Price point: Will be £69.95

Camera options GP2/GP3/Mobius/SJ4000

Thanks for your patience

Cheers rob w/stinky cold :-(
Flyingwings

iPeel


I think the bulkhead or something is needed to keep the hatch supported Rob, and if it's moveable the cutouts in the foam hatch won't match up. IMO it's in the right place but I guess it could be made half height and run along the top of the centre section.