The K-Quad now available for download from Thingiverse

Started by krikey, January 02, 2014, 05:17:21 PM

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krikey

I've had some requests to lengthen the holes on the legs for bigger motor mounts now. So perhaps if people are going to fly 3S, which seems likely, can you let me know the diagonal max dimensions for the new slots and I can work some up on a new leg design?

Krikey

Fpvmatt

Hi guys, the stuff from rc mart, rcx 1804 motors ( 2 clock, 2 anti clock ) and 5x3 props, rcx 10 amp esc's will be good for this quad?
If someone can confirm please then I'll place my order :)

Cheers

rculone

HI,

Frame recevied , Good Job and print .

2 Things for improving :)  :

the hole on arms for the motor mounting are only for the turnigy motors ? Cannot mount the RCX .
Cannot re-screw , the hole on the arm for the bearing and circlips is too big . not enought material .

On the no-KK2 bottom plate (normal) will be good to gets the 4 holes to mound an CC3D flight control  .


Fabien
The assembly will wait

krikey

Could you tell me what the diagonal space would be for the RCX motors? Im fast reaching the opinion that I need to provide inserts so that more motors can be fitted.
Krikey

CurryKitten

I've got 11mm on my calipers, the shaft that comes through is about 5mm in diameter - so would need a few mm around it to keep out of the way.

The screws they come with for mounting are m2's, the shaft look to be about 3.3mm, and the head 1.3mm (ish)  Mentioned as if you were making a mount you might like to counter sink the screw for the motor in, and then use the existing holes in the frame to securing the mounting plate.... if that makes sense

Dizzy

#305
MY adaptor plate design for converting the frame mounting bolt holes to suit the tiny motors from My rc mart :D

Basically  its small pieces of pcb board without the copper centre drilled to 6mm stuck on a 6mm bolt spun up on the drill filed round then 8 holes in each the inner 4 for the motor the outer four for the frame holes counter sunk  on opposite sides.

I have ordered 2mm counter sunk 4mm long for the motor and 8mm countersunk for the frame side with nuts to suite.
In the picture those are dropped in when done up there flush the 8mm length is needed so you can get a grip with a pair of pliers when tightening them under the frame becouse the heads would be covered by the motor ( so its motor fit first with thread lock then fit the adaptor plate to the frame ) job done :D
I could not  think of anything simpler tbh :D

The sky is for byrds and fpvers

Easystar, Penquin, Spitfire, fun cub Zcub  Tonks Summit  
Los slope

krikey

Thats interesting Dizzy. How do you tighten down your bracket to the frame as the motor seems to get in the way, or does it?
Krikey

Dizzy

#307
Quote from: krikey on April 04, 2014, 08:49:28 PM
Thats interesting Dizzy. How do you tighten down your bracket to the frame as the motor seems to get in the way, or does it?
Its a bodge but works just hold the end of the 8mm bolt with a pair of pliers when you do the nut up  :D
I intend cutting them to length once installed anyway anything to keep the weight as low as possible

It works and was free as i had bits of pcb board in my scraps box :)

dizzy
The sky is for byrds and fpvers

Easystar, Penquin, Spitfire, fun cub Zcub  Tonks Summit  
Los slope

krikey

#308
Ok im mocking up some "dizzy plates" now :)

EDIT:

...and heres the first. inner holes are 12.4 diameter to fit these: http://www.myrcmart.com/zmr-1804-2400kv-micro-outrunner-brushless-motor-clockwise-p-6281.html



Krikey

Dizzy

#309
Quote from: krikey on April 04, 2014, 09:08:35 PM
Ok im mocking up some "dizzy plates" now :)
Oh shucks never had anything named after me before cheers krikey :D

dizzy :)
The sky is for byrds and fpvers

Easystar, Penquin, Spitfire, fun cub Zcub  Tonks Summit  
Los slope

krikey

Quote from: CurryKitten on April 04, 2014, 06:15:38 PM
I've got 11mm on my calipers, the shaft that comes through is about 5mm in diameter - so would need a few mm around it to keep out of the way.

The screws they come with for mounting are m2's, the shaft look to be about 3.3mm, and the head 1.3mm (ish)  Mentioned as if you were making a mount you might like to counter sink the screw for the motor in, and then use the existing holes in the frame to securing the mounting plate.... if that makes sense

Is that 11mm diameter CK or 11mm between each hole (not diagonal). If theres a motor spec page, let me know and Ill find the diagrams there.
Krikey

CurryKitten

I measured at 11mm between the holes - but in a diagonal, which should be the diameter.  The page could be right though, as the caliper ends are kind of curved so I attempted to measure from the middle, but I can get a reading from both ends of the hole between 10.4mm and 12.4mm

Dizzy

I just been playing about fitting those motors using my plates i found the length of the long bolts to bolt through the frame need to be at least 10 prob 12mm be better as a washer needs to be fitted underneath plus the nut so an 8mm bolt even well countersunk is a bit to short to hold properly when doing the nut up :+

So have revised my order and purchased 12mm countersunk pins and washers to fit :)

dizzy  :)
The sky is for byrds and fpvers

Easystar, Penquin, Spitfire, fun cub Zcub  Tonks Summit  
Los slope

Flypoppa

#313
I am still around, but have not been posting for a while. During my learning to fly my K- quad, I have had a few breakages. First I damaged the legs. Then a couple of arms.
I thought this could be costly. Due respect to Krikey, and he makes a great if for me a fragile frame. The rest of the body parts are still good.
So what I have done, I flattened some half round gutter and cut out arms and legs. I have also made a hatch cover from water bottles and shrunk over a mould.
I have also now found a case that the quad, TX and spares fit into.

krikey

Love the idea of the case for it all. What can we do about the arms? Perhaps more plastic and less holes?
Krikey